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I bet I have the slowest speed here


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:::.. Download Stats ..:::

Connection is:: 548 Kbps about 0.5 Mbps (tested with 386 kB)

Download Speed is:: 67 kB/s

Tested From:: https://testmy.net (server1)

Test Time:: Sun Feb 19 2006 03:12:10 GMT-0500 (Eastern Standard Time)

Bottom Line:: 10X faster than 56K 1MB download in 15.28 sec

Diagnosis: May need help : running at only 11.48 % of your hosts average (comcast.net)

Validation Link:: https://testmy.net/stats/id-BARQGOZF4

I really have no clue what is wrong here. I have the Motorola SB5120 SURFboard Cable Modem. I did all the basic stuff, like restarting my modem and scanning for viruses and whatnot. I tried it on the other computer with the same luck. this is just unbelievable. the speed is just unbearable. oh, and the upload speed is virtually zero. and yes, everything is plugged in securely. I live in Union, NJ.

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Guest jeffwalker9999

I think it may be signal levels - so try below - please and post

goto 192.168.100.1

this will bring up the modem ( motorola surfboard - modem stats and test page)

copy and paste your "signal" page and post or PM me with it.

Also reset modem via the surfboard page "Configuration"

be sure to read the "note" at bottom of the configuration page

as it is true and can take quite a long time

I have Cox Cable -Las Vegas Nv and the signal does effect the speeds.

If you have a splitter - bypass it and do a test of line speed.................

as most splitters reduse to signal by ---10 db

Cox has had to run new cable and fix there main feed to the apt unit

to get me working correctly

?? what is your service speed ??

( package you got ? - 3meg/256k -- 5meg/768k -- 256k/256k )

?? have you cablenut adjusted ---- if so settings - post them.........

What are your c:>tracert www.testmy.net ping times ?? ( post )

Also -- No USB  -  No Usb

Use Ethernet Connection of modem

I'm sure that  the testmy.net members will get you working back up to a good speed

as testmy.net is the best !!!

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Downstream  Value

Frequency 723000000 Hz

Signal to Noise Ratio 28 dB

QAM QAM256

Network Access Control Object ON

Power Level -24 dBmV 

The Downstream Power Level reading is a snapshot taken at the time this page was requested. Please Reload/Refresh this Page for a new reading

Upstream Value

Channel ID 8

Frequency 24800000 Hz

Ranging Service ID 4062

Symbol Rate 2.560 Msym/s

Power Level 58 dBmV

Tracing route to www.testmy.net [67.18.179.85]

over a maximum of 30 hops:

  1    <1 ms    <1 ms    <1 ms  192.168.1.1

  2    *        *        *    Request timed out.

  3    7 ms    7 ms    9 ms  ge-2-1-ur01.summit.nj.panjde.comcast.net [68.86.

212.209]

  4    9 ms    *        8 ms  te-1-1-ur02.summit.nj.panjde.comcast.net [68.86.

209.190]

  5    8 ms    *        9 ms  te-1-1-ur01.plainfield.nj.panjde.comcast.net [68

.86.209.194]

  6    9 ms    8 ms    *    te-1-1-ur02.plainfield.nj.panjde.comcast.net [68

.86.209.198]

  7    9 ms    9 ms    9 ms  te-2-1-ar01.plainfield.nj.panjde.comcast.net [68

.86.209.202]

  8    12 ms    11 ms    11 ms  68.86.211.2

  9    *        *      28 ms  12.118.102.17

10    50 ms    49 ms    47 ms  tbr2-p032501.n54ny.ip.att.net [12.123.3.86]

11    47 ms    47 ms    48 ms  tbr2-cl15.wswdc.ip.att.net [12.122.10.54]

12    47 ms    49 ms    48 ms  tbr1-cl27.wswdc.ip.att.net [12.122.9.149]

13    46 ms    47 ms    47 ms  tbr1-cl4.sl9mo.ip.att.net [12.122.10.30]

14    47 ms    48 ms    47 ms  tbr2-cl6.dlstx.ip.att.net [12.122.10.90]

15    *        *      46 ms  12.122.82.45

16    48 ms    47 ms    *    12.119.136.14

17    88 ms    48 ms    *    vl32.dsr01.dllstx3.theplanet.com [70.85.127.61]

18    48 ms    47 ms    48 ms  vl41.dsr01.dllstx4.theplanet.com [70.85.127.83]

19    48 ms    47 ms    47 ms  gi1-0-1.car17.dllstx4.theplanet.com [67.18.116.6

9]

20    49 ms    47 ms    50 ms  85.67-18-179.reverse.theplanet.com [67.18.179.85

]

Trace complete.

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Guest jeffwalker9999

???what are the speeds you are subscribed to ???

ex: 1.5 meg in / 512 out

the  db is way out of  specs

value is horrid - ouch - ouch

>> see topic  for more help of :::::

http://www.testmy.net/forum/index.php?topic=9681.0

is there a splitter in the connection ??

if so remove and repost signal

((( see below )))

Also dont like the fact 2nd ping is at a loss

but I'm really not the one to help you on it -sorry

cablenut tweaks should fix pings

http://www.testmy.net/forum/index.php?topic=1013.msg9346#msg9346


This post is very factual and does work :::::::::::


ok i know this sounds funny, but it helps......if you're running the coaxial cable that goes into ur modem through a splitter or some kind of an adapter, replace it....especially if you're running it through a low quality splitter (they're known to create issues) - replace it, or connect it directly to your modem without splitting it into your tv or something.....ur speeds are bound to return to normal :)

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Guest jeffwalker9999

???what are the speeds you are subscribed to ???

ex: 1.5 meg in / 512 out

the  db is way out of  specs

value is horrid - ouch - ouch

>> see topic  for more help of :::::

http://www.testmy.net/forum/index.php?topic=9681.0

is there a splitter in the connection ??

if so remove and repost signal

((( see below )))

Also dont like the fact 2nd ping is at a loss

but I'm really not the one to help you on it -sorry

cablenut tweaks should fix pings

http://www.testmy.net/forum/index.php?topic=1013.msg9346#msg9346


This post is very factual and does work :::::::::::


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Electromagnetic interference (EMI) can be another possible cause of your speed problem. One common source of EMI is from the router that is placed next to the modem:

https://www.speedguide.net/read_articles.php?id=1885

Other sources of EMI are sound speakers (eg. subwoofer) cordless phone set or even the power supply box mounted on the top inside of the CPU tower.

So ensure you keep your signal cables and signal devices like modem and router away from sources of EMI.

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Electromagnetic interference (EMI) can be another possible cause of your speed problem. One common source of EMI is from the router that is placed next to the modem:

https://www.speedguide.net/read_articles.php?id=1885

Other sources of EMI are sound speakers (eg. subwoofer) cordless phone set or even the power supply box mounted on the top inside of the CPU tower.

So ensure you keep your signal cables and signal devices like modem and router away from sources of EMI.

this is your suggestion to everyone

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wow. check out how horrible this is:

:::.. Upload Stats ..:::

Connection is:: 26 Kbps about 0 Mbps (tested with 97 kB)

Upload Speed is:: 3 kB/s

Tested From:: https://testmy.net (server1)

Test Time:: Sun Feb 19 23:08:24 EST 2006

Bottom Line:: 0X faster than 56K 1MB upload in 341.33 sec

Diagnosis: May need help : running at only 7.56 % of your hosts average (comcast.net)

Validation Link:: https://testmy.net/stats/id-DZ9KOTS1G

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oh. it gets funnier.

:::.. Upload Stats ..:::

Connection is:: 7 Kbps about 0 Mbps (tested with 97 kB)

Upload Speed is:: 1 kB/s

Tested From:: https://testmy.net (server1)

Test Time:: Sun Feb 19 23:29:30 EST 2006

Bottom Line:: 0X faster than 56K 1MB upload in 1024 sec

Diagnosis: May need help : running at only 2.03 % of your hosts average (comcast.net)

Validation Link:: https://testmy.net/stats/id-2LJQGVENT

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This is some information on using a ferrous core & I think they are also

called a ferrite core.There are better & larger ones available than the

RadioShack ones.With good sheilded cables probably not as necessary.This

information is for dial-up but I think it would apply tp DSL Possibly

even cable.

Most line noise that has trouble has been input through the telephone

lines

Here are two possible corrective measures.

Go to Radio Shack with $8.95 plus tax.  Get a snap on choke, aka

toroid. Cat. No. 273-104.

It is a ferrous core that snaps apart and snaps toegether again.

Snap it open.  Wind your telephone cord around it up to seven times.

Place it close to the modem.  The plastic blister pack comes with

two cores.  If you need more suppression, use both.

It is VERY simple.  Even you can do it.  There is no wiring at all.

Just wrap your phone cord - be careful about the direction of winding

and snap it together again.

I doubt if this trap below is available.

The second approach is one which has benefitted a member of this

board.  This involves a friendly Pac Tel repairman who came up with

a "trap."  To me, a "trap" is a notch filter.  I have looked at it.

It is a small plastic item about the size of a book of matches.

It has two wires in and two wires out.  It is placed in the phone

junction box (where the phone line enters the house).  It has three

two pole switches on it.  By setting the switches, it is possible

to screen out noise in a particular frequency range.  The member

who benefitted from this has the computer/modem about two blocks

from a cluster of 5 tall AM radio transmitting towers.  Before the

installation, it was absolutely impossible to use the modem until

late at night when the station powered down.  Now there is no noise

during the day when the station is powered up.

the following is diagram of what you've done and

an explanation of why it really does help.

                                    - - - - - - -

      P1    + / / / /      M1    |      |

          ____/_/_/_/___________________|       Input

Phone      _____________                  | /      circuitry

Line        _____________                  |/        of

          ____  _  _  _  __________________    |    modem

              / / / /                  ____|

      P2    + / / / /      M2              | /

                                    |          |/

        Bifilar transformer        -------------

The "+" signs are the polarity marks for the windings (the two wires

of the phone line in this case); they identify which terminals of the

transformer will, instantaneously, have the same polarity of induced

voltage (EMF).  The effect of the transformer is to reject

common-mode signals while transmitting differential signals.

The desired information is in the differential signal, and is thus

not attenuated.  Noise sources such as leakage or inductive coupling

from nearby power lines and voltages induced by lightning strikes

and the like often have a large part of their energy in the

common-mode signal, which is rejected.  The net effect is an

improvement of signal-to-noise ratio, which is what you reported to

us.

A few words for those who may want to understand the language of the

field a bit better for purposes of following up these ideas:

    The differential-mode signal is the difference in voltage

between two points.  It is VP1-VP2 at the phone line and VM1-VM2

at the modem input (where Vxy denotes the voltage at point xy).

    The common-mode signal is the mean voltage at two points.  It is

(VP1+VP2)/2 at the phone line and (VM1+VM2)/2 at the modem input.

    The action of the bifilar transformer is to enforce that

(VP1-VM1), the voltage induced in the upper winding, is equal to

(VP2-VM2), the voltage induced in the lower winding.  The rejection

of common-mode and the acceptance of differential-mode signals then

follows as a direct consequence.

Modems normally attempt to do their *own* job of rejecting common

mode signals.  Often, however, this is done by circuitry which either

only partially accomplishes this, or which accomplishes it up to a

certain value of common-mode voltage, after which the circuitry no

longer effectively does its rejection job.  Thus the bifilar

transformer gives a hand in both cases.

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is this still bad?

Downstream  Value

Frequency 723000000 Hz 

Signal to Noise Ratio 37 dB 

QAM QAM256

Network Access Control Object ON

Power Level 12 dBmV  The Downstream Power Level reading is a snapshot taken at the time this page was requested. Please Reload/Refresh this Page for a new reading 

Upstream  Value

Channel ID 8

Frequency 24800000 Hz 

Ranging Service ID 3973

Symbol Rate 2.560 Msym/s

Power Level 58 dBmV 

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is this still bad?

Downstream  Value

Frequency 723000000 Hz   

Signal to Noise Ratio 37 dB 

QAM QAM256

Network Access Control Object ON

Power Level 12 dBmV   The Downstream Power Level reading is a snapshot taken at the time this page was requested. Please Reload/Refresh this Page for a new reading 

Upstream  Value

Channel ID 8

Frequency 24800000 Hz 

Ranging Service ID 3973

Symbol Rate 2.560 Msym/s

Power Level 58 dBmV 

Your power levels are way high. I've been having similar problems. From the drop on the pole I was losing 23 dB in 120 feet. They actually came out today and moved the drop for me now it's about 25 feet from the house. And my speeds are alot better. My main problem was very extreme fluctuation in speeds I was going from 6 meg to 500 k/bs and back up and down the whole time it was running. Now oddly enough the tech told me it was from water getting into the drop and causing power fluctuations on the line. Here's what my SB5120 signals read which are actually normal now. I really hope this may help you out. Oh yeah I have the 6 meg package.

Downstream  Value

Frequency 459000000 Hz   

Signal to Noise Ratio 35 dB 

QAM QAM256

Network Access Control Object ON

Power Level 5 dBmV   The Downstream Power Level reading is a snapshot taken at the time this page was requested. Please Reload/Refresh this Page for a new reading 

Upstream  Value

Channel ID 3

Frequency 30992000 Hz 

Ranging Service ID 1574

Symbol Rate 2.560 Msym/s

Power Level 47 dBmV 

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Guest jeffwalker9999

:booty:

your levels are still bad

:protest:

Again I must state about the splitter

as it is a common problem

:icon_scratch:

From what I understand ideal range is -10db to +20db

--- neg is the better signal levels

:icon_cyclops_ani:

Again I beleave that you have an signal level problem - to many drops

and thats what is causing the problems with speed

:binkybaby:

I get 30 to 40 db upstream and downstream and --4 to +6

levels here in las vegas and modem does connect

but at times speed is effected very much by these signal levels

:confused2:

cox has had to replace cable to unit and main feed line to keep me connected

and even a field supervisor has had to come out many times to keep me running

and I even have her personal cell number because of my signal problems

:icon_cyclops_ani:

there are few fourms on testmy.net about signal levels

 

:icon_salut:

please keep me posted as to what is being done

:computer:

I'm a former telecomm tech and ham radio oper ( not active KB6JSO )

fire,police,ambulance,taxi,oilwell,farming,microwave,radio communications tech

not active do to stroke but do keep up on the industry

:321:

in the event you cannot get satifction

see this site as it is a dispute site and they do get resoults

I personally have used them many times

http://www.planetfeedback.com/

:computer:

Just posted by Cable in an other topic is this and very very true and a fact

Ahh, good 'ol Directional Coupler's

Yeah those splitters can help greatly in some situations.  There is one drawback, the way that splitter works is that it actually drops more signal on one leg but less on the tap leg.  Some of the more common type of these are DC-9 and DC-6 (DC stands for Directional Coupler).  A DC-9 would drop 9dBmV on the 'out' leg and would drop nearly nothing on the tap leg... DC-6 would lose 6dBmV (compare that to a normal two way splitter that loses 3.5dBmV on all legs or a 4 way that loses 7 on all legs.)  These range from 6dBmV all the way to a 30dBmV loss on the 'out' leg.  The thing is, signal loss isn't always bad... there is a range you need to be in, too much signal can be just as fatal as not enough ;-) -- and if you are having a problem that is this bad it may come down to a 'real' tech with a signal meter.  Below is a little pic of a couple of DC splitters, there are the tap leg type and the wall type that is typically behind a wallplate.

A little (well actually huge) side note :: If you are having this much trouble you may want to ask your cable company to send an in house tech... sometimes contractors don't have the customers best interest in mind (they sometimes just want to finish the job and get paid.. unfortunately this means rushing through a job and passing the problem on to the next tech.. very sad but that's how allot of these contractors work.)  When I worked for Cox as a tech the contractors were only allowed to do install, I was very disappointed to hear that they started sending these guys to do trouble calls... there are some good ones out there, but the majority don't know what they are doing and are very under qualified.  ... the good news is that you can request an in house tech, but you have to make sure of something.  Sometimes the message does not get conveyed so you have to make sure of a couple of things, when the tech comes out make sure he's wearing a Cox shirt (some of them may say Cox on them... but will also have the name of the contracting company next to that so be careful), also make sure that he is in a Cox truck, not just a truck that has a Cox magnet on it.. If you are unsure of what company the tech 'actually' works for... ask him "Are you a contractor."  -- if he says yes, tell him "Sorry, nothing personal but I requested an in-house-tech... I have had too many problems with contractors in the past, goodbye." -- then call Cox and let them know exactly what happened.  Because some contractors are scandalous and will report the job as done (and get paid for it)... even though you turned them away.  Repeat this process as many times as it takes to get a real in-house Cox tech in your home.  They are almost a rare breed these days (much cheaper for companies to contract the work out, than have to pay an in-house tech wages, insurance, benefits, tools, driving expenses, etc.).  Cox actually works very hard to find contractors that aren't doing things the right way, and I have seen many contractors lose their right to contract with Cox... but they are still out there and it will always be a battle because these guys just want to get in and out as fast as they can to make the $$.  Just beware... haha

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