prairiedogsplatr

Found wireless drivers all problems are solved. Thank you mudman

Got most the drivers but having problems getting the wireless driver to work yet is no flag in device manager. however i do have a flag for ethernet controller but the ethernet is working fine.

Xp loaded just fine but now i have to find drivers and the toshiba website just sits there when i click links for some reason. So am in search for drivers.

thank you for the fast responce. Sorry for getting back so late had a death in the family. Will be able to try this tonight sometime i am thinking thank you for advise.

I have another toshiba satelite giving me problems. I read that many people have downgraded vista to xp. Every single page i go to the links are expired. from wht i read i think i am going to need nlite and put the drivers for the sata drive on the windows xp install cd. The problem i am having is that toshiba website is broken and no links for any laptop will download. I also read that i need to flash the bios to the xp bios they have listed before atempting. if anyone could help me locate the links or send them to me for the bios and drivers for sata drive i would really appreciate it toshiba satellite a205-s5831

I have installed sata drivers on many machines before yet this laptop is giving me the biggest headache ever. I search and search for drivers for it to install win xp on it i do not want to bring it back to vista or install win7 on it. The model is a Satellite A205-S5000. I have read on other sites that i can get drivers from intel and they will work maybe i am using the wrong ones but when it goes to add them it causes a blue screen cause the drivers were bad. any help would be appreciated.

Decided to test out the bottom card again in the top pcie slot alone (not in crossfire) Motherboard will not post with that card. Lights on keyboard flash about every 10 seconds. No picture to screen no matter what kind of cable i use. I was nearly possetive it was the psu this whole time but after talking to the xfx tech he agreed it was the card and issued an RMA for it. Guess i will have to wait two weeks and see if the new card that comes will give me any problems.

Ya i only bring it up when i want to show off. If i could figure out something that would take as much cpu as i got to its max i would be oc all time but really what is their that needs something to run that fast?

Thanks for the advice it runs alot better had it OC to 4ghz and purs like a kitten

Are the pcie cords on the 12V circuit?

Got the water cooler. Holding my temps well under 40 and idel is about 29 now looks like a good cooler to me thanks for the advice i didnt even see it on newegg before you suggested it.

Says 450 is min and i got a 630 with a 140 watt cpu I would think that would be enough but a little more never hurt Is it possible i had the crossfire tab in the wrong spot? i had it on the set of tabs close to the video outputs. I will try the other card out tues or weds depends on when my IC7 thermal compound gets here. I have to take the motherboard out anyways to put in my water cooler that should be here today.

Here is the psu i bought http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817152035 I would think it would be enough power to that card i need to look at that link still.

Think i found out what the problem is (kind of) I took out my second graphics card and everything works great. This is telling me i would think that it is either the voltage from the psu to the cards, one card is bad, the motherboard is having problems running 2 cards..( made for 4 cards) or some setting in the bios is making it crash while both are hooked up. Just a few thoughts about it hopefully with more testing it can be resolved. Played cod mw2 for a few hours no crash so far. Rebooted many times no crash on reboot. Leaving pc on for the nite see what happens.

Does all this info look correct? And yes i know i have my ram under clocked just waiting for machine to be stable before i take it back to 1600.

Got sick of my pc not booting up and decided to reinstall Win7. I am noticing one thing that is strange. If this was not software messing with my voltage what else could it be? In other words why could i always get into safe mode just fine? After reinstalling windows I am taking my time installing drivers. One thing i notice is every time i go to install ATI drivers my pc wont boot. Rather frustrating but working on a way to get around all of it. All setting in bios are set to auto and as Buntz said auto can be bad sometimes. I have so many options for changing everything on this board i have no idea where to start.

I did have the system OC for a little bit but took it off waiting for my water cooler to get here. If i install another bios it takes and will only let me boot to safe mode. If i boot regular it hangs at the windows screen. Going back to the 1303 bios for now just trying to get into windows normally. Do you think this would stop if i changed my OS?

Most times when i go to play a game suddenly i get a reboot of the pc. When it boots back up it does not start and says hypertransport sync flood error has ocured on last boot press F1 to continue. Some times before it happens i get some audio freezing then screen freeze and it reboots. I have tryed many differant bios versions but that makes it so i cant boot at all. I can get into safe mode after every time but it can be a pain to get back into windows the regular way. Any idea on what is causeing this google has given me no answers. Asus M4A79T Deluxe Phenom 2 965 140watt 2 XFX Radeon HD 5750 1 Gig in crossfire Patriot sector 5 DDR3 1600Mhz 4 Gig 2 Seagate Barracuda 1Tb - 2TB raid 0 Raidmax hybrid RX-630SS XCLIO A380BK

I am reading that the best method may be a push pull. I do not see anywhere that tells me how long these tubes are that is bothering me. I do not think i will have enough room to do a normal install on the back of the case and thinking i may need to put it under my dvd drive some how. If the tubes reach

lol I don't think i feel up to submersing my pc anytime soon for how new it is but would make a fun project for one of my older ones. I think i need to do some more reasearch on that corsair water cooler but it sure looks like a good cheap cooling system that would fit my needs. Too bad i have to order an AM3 bracket it looks like but i am not sure.

It idle at 42-43 and when clocked to 3.8 idle at 47 seems hott for the temp in room being winter and all.

What would be the best bang for the buck air or liquid cooling? Will i see a huge differance in liquid cooling comapred to air? I can already safely clock my cpu to 3.7 and stay stable. Seems like alot can go wrong down the line with liquid cooling but i could be wrong need someone with more experience. I am looking for a better way to cool my cpu down. Here is my specs. Does AM2 and AM2+ heatsinks fit all AM3 motherboards? Will I have to completely take apart my pc to put a new back plate on or will the one on the back now work fro mostly anything? I have only used the clip on ones that were after market for amd ibeleive it was the artic cool freezer 64 pro but not in my machine and never tested temps. Also whats better for thermal compound Artic silver 5 or OCZ freeze. Asus M4A79T Deluxe Phenom 2 965 140watt 2 XFX Radeon HD 5750 1 Gig in crossfire Patriot sector 5 DDR3 1600Mhz 4 Gig 2 Seagate Barracuda 1Tb - 2TB raid 0 Raidmax hybrid RX-630SS XCLIO A380BK

Back now that i have recovered was a nasty sickness i had. I will get that power supply tested tonite via voltage meter. I am looking at it now and see a few bad caps inside the psu. Tells me that it is most deffinately the psu. I have read many places that they can be replaced for like 20$ I find no motivation to do that much work rather spend the 100$ i think. And mud only reason i am fixing this is to sell it. So if you are really that interested in it give me a shout.

this is what i got my info from a quote from that page Does LED 2 come on momentarily, or not at all? * Momentarily: The logic board has detected power, but the power supply cannot maintain it. Your power supply needs to be replaced. If you have an iMac G5 (Ambient Light Sensor) computer, contact your local Apple Retail Store or Apple Authorized Service Provider for service. * Not at all: Your logic board needs to be replaced. Please contact your local Apple Retail Store or Apple Authorized Service Provider for service. Sorry it has been a few days i am very sick and tryn to get the energy to think straight will get this done soon i hope as soon as i get better.

i think i read the same place as you did mudman. this aticle here I am going to take apart the power supply and check for bad caps. Since the second led did lite up that paragraph at the very bottom says the power supply can't hold the power, and needs to be replaced. As for multi meter i would need a pin layout or directions in order to check because i really do not feel comfortable with that. These psu for mac are strange. They are made to fit by screen size some with ambient lite censor some with isight. Nothing compared to the information i would recieve when looking up a regular pc psu. The link you have provided looks like the correct psu except it does not have the acual lite censor on it and i think that could cause problems down the line i would rather not take chances. It seems that these psu are identified by a EEE code that i can't seem to find anywhere on the machine.