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computer's temperature is so high


insideout

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Just to add to this debate, I have used expensive silver paste and the cheap paste that  comes with the processor  and never saw any difference in temp.

but dust has raised the temp by 10C on my puter after 2 years,

the problem with alternative Heatsinks is weight

they often are above the M/B socket limit , and there is nothing more sad than a good M/B with a broken heat sink mount  IMHO

my cpu is running 40 C with ambient room at 23C ,Cpu running at 4% just checked

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ive had different experience....to say that switching from paste that came with the heatsink and the arctic silver 5 i use now didnt change the temperature i would be lying....for me it lowered both the idle and the load temperature by about 5-6c

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ive had different experience....to say that switching from paste that came with the heatsink and the arctic silver 5 i use now didnt change the temperature i would be lying....for me it lowered both the idle and the load temperature by about 5-6c

thanks for that disturbed , I will try that again as I allways used Artic silver b4 and found it good, the worst I have found was the stick on pads,  :evil1:

last month I was given a puter Pent 3  that kept BSOD, the heatsink was liying on the floor of the case , :roll:    

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Roco;I'm going to put togather my posts from the Temperature topic.

I never did build this but I think it would be excelent because it would either take the exhaust from the computer case outside,to another room or to the attic.This would drop the temperature in the room even minorly.With thee increased flow it should keep the PC at room temperature.The one thing I didn't look for & I bet they make one is a better filter for the case intake.This would be necessary due to the increased air flow.If this was done correctly I don't think it would void any warranty.I think PC cases should have a lot better intake filtration than they do now anyway.

I did some work on the vent system like I was thinking about.These are the link for the parts.

http://www.smarthome.com/3011.html 3016  This is the inline exhaust fan you would need to put a 115 volt power cord on it.Or if you put it through the ceiling into the attic probably wire it directly to the house wiring.This is a inside vent fan.(they do make some outside inline vent fans but the are 4 to 5 times more expensive.)

http://dwincorp.com/product_info.php?cPath=57&products_id=296&osCsid=d1d4a60d28cb52714f39104782bb8987  This is the link for the 4" insulated flex duct.

http://plumbing.gillroys.com/Heating/Dryer_vents_and_hose/Bathroom_Fan_Eave_Vent-s264954.html This is a vent I found that looks like the flat part facing the PC power supply could be screwed then sealed in front of the power supply fan & the flex duct clamped to the other side.

The reason for the fan being this far away is to take the noise & heat out of the PC room.If you use an outside fan you could go strait through the outside wall & the fan noise would be outside.

With the inside fan Cost would be under $100.00 with the outside fan about$225.00

I decided I would post the outside fan also.  http://www.fantech.net/fr.htm

below is a diagram & photos of the parts.

On my plan there are three options for locating the exhaust fan.1.through the wall into the next room the exhaust fan would be in the next room.this would put the fan noise & PC heat in the next room.2.The same with the attic if you wanted to have the fan noise & PC heat in the attic.

3. This would require the more expensive outdoor exhaust fan & it would draw the PC heat through the outside wall. If you wanted to draw outside air into the PC in the winter you could run a duct from the PC intake to a window.

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HiCholla, it looks a interesting project, I am all for moving the warm air from the puter to outside the house , as that would also take some of the noise with it ,

and I have thought of using a flexy hose from a tumble dryer , connected to the output of the PSU grill , through the flexible to a extractor fan in the house wall ,

I like the pre filter idea, my only concern is it would have be easily  removable for cleaning , maybe once a week , as houses in the UK have fitted carpets throughtout , and do create a lot of dust , but saying that temperatures in the house remain at around 68-77F

all year round in UK  without A/C,  most of the time  , our 101 F a few weeks back almost caused meltdown in UK, today it is 62F , so we have lost around 40F in a week or so,

and closer to our summer average of 71F,

My CPU , AMD 2.8 Ghz is running at 40C _104F , that looks OK to me,

Dust is my main problem , after 2 years without taking the case apart , temps had reached 51 C, _128 F,still a aceptable temperatue ,

sorry if I seemed to be a Luddite ( LOL, that is a Engish term for a person that resists change , it came from the late 18 centry , a group of people went round smashing machinery as they feared lose of work  , yeah, they were hung for there troubles )

But I guess you people have more of a temperature problem than UK members have

 

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Roco;What I found was this it's insulated so a lot better than the thin flexy dryer vent hose.

http://dwincorp.com/product_info.php?cPath=57&products_id=296&osCsid=d1d4a60d28cb52714f39104782bb8987

4" x 25' Insulated Flex

[4" x 25' Ins] $16.00

Highly efficient thermally insulated flexible duct, for use in heating and cooling systems. CPE core easily expands over fittings. Core is bonded to a steel spring wire helix supporting a blanket of fiberglass covered by a polyethylene vapor barrier. One 25 ft. section per carton

I don't overclock so Heating really hasn't been a problem.I don't know why but my motherboard doesn't have a heat sensor.But I have a program for my specific hard drive that will measure its temperature.

I will see what I can find on intake filters for computers.I guess you need to use some compressed air to blow it all out.

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I own one & I just use light pressure on the blower valve.But some people might need to use a pressure regulator.Or for a lot that don't have an air compresser(full size) you can use a portable air tank fill it with the small electric compresser that you can carry in your car for low tires.Just fill it to 25 lbs or so & it will have low pressure.You can get a blower valve for these that just fits over the regular chuck for tire valves.

Heres the alternate option You can get a hose like comes with the small compresser or a hand operated air pump.You can just use your spare car tire clip the hose to the tire valve & a blower on the other end.Then just air the spare back up after.

Btw : Volkswagon used to power their windsheild washer this way.

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Hi Guys , re the *Pre- filter, normally they can be washed , if you have any  connection with Hospital/Laboratory engineers ? as the clean rooms use Hepa filters, usually they have a pre-filter in front of the expensive  Hepa filter,

it is like  woven  cotton wool , it can be bought by the mtr. about 3/4 inch thick ,

it often has a red stripe printed on it , when the red line disappears it's time to change it ,

I like the link for Flexible tube, as the 2CV uses 4 tubes of that diameter to dump the hot air from the engine (Air Cooled ) Citroen original tubes are of a cardboard construction  :evil3:

but using tumble dryer tube increases the noise factor , so I will look into your link

Hepa http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HEPA

more info http://www.antonimex.com/en/page11_en.html

*Pre filter =Intake filter Washable polyamide fiber filter EU3 DIN 24185

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I looked around for the insulated tube because it made sense to not let the heat into the room.I hope the work for the 2CV .

The prefilter material sounds like it would work for a self engineered filter.The ones I found already made for a computer were thin & didn't look like they would help but a little.Maybe there are some good ones I just didn't find them.They do make some PC cases with filters.

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Hi Cholla , I think you can get the prefilter in different thicknesses, just thought some vacuum, cleaners use a thin prefilter just in front of the fan, maybe a apliance repair shop may use it ?

looks like the flexitube is not availible in the UK :angry5: and at

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Again, you can use an air compressor for compressed air, instead of buying compressed air.

If you happen to own one, but turn down the pressure.

Just a thought.

but make sure the moisture trap is working ok , otherwise you might as well throw the puter in the washing machine  :whaa: no no, don't try that at home folks  :lol:

Tommie got any view on using compressed air on the M/B , just wondered about  a static charge developing , with the blast of air across it,  I used a nylon brush once, only once mind you, expensive lesson  :(

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Roco;Heres some info on getting the ducting.you might try.If your interested.I have never bout anything from this company but theve been in business since 1967 according to their site info.

Please call 1-800-255-0829

for all orders outside of the

United States

These are a couple of their contact by e-mail addresses.

[email protected] <[email protected]>

[email protected] <[email protected]>

I think the shipping cost might be a factor.If you do get some let me know how much the shipping was.

On the compressed air I guess it's so dry here I've never had much water condensation in my compressor.But I could see this in a humid climate.I guess I would turn off all the power .Probably a ground strap to the metal blower would take care of static. & probably doing it on a PC that had been off several hours wouldn't be a bad idea.

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