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nanobot

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nanobot last won the day on December 23 2019

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About nanobot

  • Rank
    Don't hate the combover.
  • Birthday 08/21/1994

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    Nanobot8534
  • Website URL
    http://www.ellersoft.com/
  • Skype
    EBrown8534

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Detroit Area
  • Interests
    Golf, Microsoft Systems, Networking, Cisco Systems, ASP.NET, C#.

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  1. Nice, post-dates my Tier-1 work, which explains it. TIL I can run some testing from here as well, I'm running DHCP-PD, so the ISP assigns a /64 which is then assigned to each device.
  2. FWIW the private IP ranges are: 10.0.0.0 - 10.255.255.255 127.16.0.0 - 172.31.255.255 192.168.0.0 - 192.168.255.255 If your "modem WAN" address is in one of those ranges, then your ISP is definitely using carrier-grade NAT. If the IP your modem says isn't in one of those ranges, it's not likely, but is still possible. @rebrecs You can usually ask for a "single" / "pinned" IP address from your ISP, though TMN would still see that as a single source. @CA3LE Does TMN support IPv6 fully? Does it track per IPv6 address? If so, @rebrecs you can probably switch to IPv6 and TMN could theoretically track every individual device in your house during testing, so you could literally track results per-device by IP address.
  3. We had Direcway, then Hughesnet. We were fortunate that we could keep the Direcway tech instead of having to switch over to the Hughesnet crap. The old Direcway modem was practically bulletproof. Had it for 10 years. When we finally had to switch (because we got a faster connection) the new Hughesnet modem worked about 60% of the time...
  4. This particular plan is $40 USD / mo. Add my TV and such, $170 / mo...cable is expensive 🤣
  5. When I worked for one of the Tier-1 ISP's (think backbone's backbone) we set speeds by literally establishing a link timing variance. Basically, 6Mbps means we can set the clock-rate on the link to 6Mhz assuming 1 bit per cycle. If we had a technology (like DOCSIS) which could transmit N signals per second, we set the clock rate to desired speed / symbol count. Very basic, very easy to test, guarantees both sides understand what to do. I don't know if that's what CenturyLink is doing, but it's highly likely.
  6. Are you connecting directly to your modem / router (whatever they call these silly boxes these days)? If not, are you connecting to a different switch? How long do you wait when you plug in? If it's less than 30 seconds, give it a good minute or two after plugging in to see if the situation changes (whatever the device is, it's entirely possible it's running Spanning Tree which typically takes 30 seconds to validate that you didn't just create a switch loop in your network). If you're waiting longer than that, the suggestion by @CA3LE is the next place I'd look. After that, perhaps test the cable and device port you are using (I see cables go bad every day).
  7. If you're 2.5 miles from the "home office" (typically an MDF/IDF - main / intermediary data facility), you are outside the "sweet-zone" of ADSL. Typically, (A)DSL sees maximum throughput at 2 miles or less from a MDF/IDF. Basically, the distance between your demarcation point (modem) and your ISP's closet. You're only half-a-mile outside the sweet-zone, so I would still expect you to see reasonable speeds. That said, you might never see a stable 6Mbps, due to ADSL typically using older, buried phone / Cat3 lines. (Unless CenturyLink ran shielded coax/twinax copper or fiber, which I highly, highly doubt.) The burst you see with TMN is likely because the lines are cool, so there's no electromagnetic field around them. Because ADSL is typically Cat3, it's often minimally (if at all) twisted, unshielded, and poor-cabling, so it's easy for the cabling to build an electromagnetic field that interferes with signal transmission. This field won't exist at an idle, it will only exist when data is being transmitted. Once the field has built up (often as quick as 50-2500ns) it starts creating cross-talk and signaling interference, slowing the throughput you can achieve. (Basically, error-rates go up, and as a result more of your bandwidth is spent on handling those errors.) Unfortunately, without replacing the cabling, your speeds probably can't be improved much. All that said, does CenturyLink offer 5Mbps? If so, I would downgrade to that and run some more testing. If their signaling is wonky, you'll see a similar drop (I would expect either 1Mbps or 833kbps drop when you switch if they have a signaling calculation incorrect). If you don't see a drop, save yourself the money and keep the 5Mbps connection. If you see a drop, document it (now, the 5 vs. 6, and then, the x vs. 5). If you still have a drop, call CenturyLink and explain the situation. I have no idea how well they'll assist you, but they should be able to make other accommodations (provide 6Mbps but bill at 5Mbps, for example).
  8. This is Wi-Fi over 802.11ac (MIMO 1300) -- capped out my 100Mbps internet connection. Windows reports it is allegedly running at 520Mbps, I'll have to prove that one of these days.
  9. I only noticed it when the "T" went away, I thought "wtf? Did they remove my pin?" Nah, now it actually looks decent. Also a dark theme, so we got that going for us.
  10. @CA3LE It only took Apple well over a decade, but Safari finally has Favicon support with the new macOS Mojave / Safari 12 update... Thanks, nanobot
  11. https://www.cnbc.com/2017/09/07/credit-reporting-firm-equifax-says-cybersecurity-incident-could-potentially-affect-143-million-us-consumers.html If anyone wondered how the U.S. is doing right now, that should sum it up. Thanks, EBrown
  12. I wonder if it could potentially be a performance issue? A basic network test in Chrome shows a lot of traffic loading past the 0.5s - 1.0s mark, Google puts a weight on performance as well. I have noticed the past few days that it has feel somewhat laggy here - on my phone it takes 10-15s to do a full refresh over LTE or WIFI. I also know the canonical tag issue mentioned by @Sean can have a negative effect if it's not properly set - Google may be indexing all the different variants, but the main page is not shown as it sees it as a "duplicate" of the uk.testmy.net page. Also, the EPOCH time for that expires is `375007920`. I also wonder if there aren't bigger issues - my search results (attached) for even `testmy.net` only have TMN as the top 6 results, which makes me think Google doesn't have a bigger problem with something. Thanks, EBrown
  13. Have you looked at the Google Search Console? https://www.google.com/webmasters/tools/ It usually has good information as to why pages aren't indexed, or are prioritized lower than others. Thanks, EBrown
  14. I believe @CA3LE mentioned something about this years ago, and for some browsers the culprit is poor hard-drive performance. Some browsers (especially when downloading large files) will attempt to save them to disk (especially if they don't know how you plan to use the result). This is usually a mostly unbuffered operation, meaning that the browser writes to disk as it downloads the data. Firefox is very likely streaming to RAM and then dumping it when complete. I would recommend looking into disk IOPS during testing, to determine if this is the case. Thanks, EBrown
  15. I would not recommend doing general PC cleaning with an air compressor for three reasons: 1. Air (especially dry) traveling at high speeds and pressures creates static electricity, which can short and damage or destroy components. 2. Forcing air into a case with that pressure and speed can embed particulate into undesirable locations. 3. It is impossible to control the debris leaving the PC in that manner, and dust particulate may create a hazard to persons nearby. Instead, what I would recommend is two stage: 1. Remove all fans (including CPU heatsink and fan) from the computer, blow each fan out with compressed air individually. Make sure to blow air into the clean side of the fan/heatsink being cleaned (to force air out the same path it came in, which is usually where the dust cakes up). 2. With the fans removed, remove the CPU itself and RAM sticks, then ground the PC and a vaccum and use a small precision attachment on a vacuum cleaner to remove the remaining dust from the PC case. Make sure not to directly attack / suck against the motherboard itself (or hard drives, PSU, etc.), and do this in a room with about 40-60% relative humidity. (The humidity will help reduce static discharge in the air and help prevent ESD from damaging components in the PC.) Been cleaning PC's this way for years, and currently zero failure incidents as a result of cleaning. (Knock on wood.) Thanks, EBrown
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