mudmanc4

Ok so i did a little searching and found that the Edimax router is as you said, the default IP does use "2" , or the secondary subnet which surprised me for whatever reason, Iv'e sen it in a belken product before, but not often other then that, generally it's used to keep machines separated for server related set ups. btw , I don't mean any disrespect when asking questions and or making comments. The term that is used when the router gives an IP to a device is "leased" To release is where there is a request for the router to clrear IP on that machine, and lease a new one to insure there isn't a IP conflict between devices. Are you connecting to the router via cat5 / RJ-45 , or wireless ? If so , or not, on which machine. Can you start a shell and type "ipconfig /all " , while the machines are connected and paste the output here ? Other then the WAN IP. Could there be a cable mis match if in fact the machines are connecting wired ? You can test this factor by going to this ndt test server

This would be a matter of opinion in most peoples thoughts. You should try each one, and then give us your opinion.

I noticed what you have posted, the IP set is from a secondary subnet, is this your doing ? I haven't seen a default router start with two domains like that. Who knows what else is set up like this. Did you get the router new, or from someone else ? Generally when you see this type of a config, the system has been set up for several systems connected, and this for security reasons, you could be looking at QOS setting that "equalizes " available bandwidth between machines.

This topic has been moved to Archives. [iurl]http://www.testmy.net/forum/index.php?topic=27290.0[/iurl]

oops , I thought you were running 7 :/ Try looking in device manager, when you find it, then update it. If thats not an option, maybe look for the motherboard manufacturer for system drivers. I dunno, is this that laptop /

I would update the drivers, maybe even see what you can do on the iPhone. I have no experience with the iPhone as of yet though, so I might be talking out my usb port..... sounds as if for some reason of another, the ports reverted to 1.0, considering your running "7" , right ? There are bound to be a few bugs as they work out this whole dynamic thing they are purporting head on.

And they thought the tea parties were a gathering of humans ..... bwahahahahahahahahaha :2funny:

Me thinks he's just telling us what time he's having problems with his stream, what movie he was watching, and what netflix, and his ISP are telling him. Of course, I'm usually wrong, could be some kind of lower fourth dimension reptilian , sending a message through the portal by means of telepathic transportation on the lines of mental tribunal schemes for no other reason then inflammatory anus , and a rectal penetration sequence that can only be performed upon the request of the queen of zuiiploinkksuk in a full alignment of inter solar wind direction, on a friday night of course. But then again, I could be wrong.

First thing I would do is place the installation disk in the machine, when you get the autorun screen that asks what you want to do , just "X" out of it. Then goto Start > Run > and type "cmd" w/o the quotes , this will start a shell. Next, go ahead and type in " sfc /scannow " again without the quotes. What this is , is a system utility to go through all windows basic system file, that are a necessity to properly run windows, and it's components. This can take quite a while, generally it will run for anywhere between 1/2 hour, to 1 hour. If the utility se's on start, that there is much corruption, and or missing files (hence you said you deleted some " things" ) , then it will switch mode , and you will see something like deleting file XXXX ... and so on, no worries, it's getting ready to put the files windows needs where, it needs them. In many cases, if the system files were trashed, you will eventually ,after a restart, se what you normally se when you install windows, saying something to the effect of, " install will finish in approx 39 minutes, then "installing devices " and so on. Make sure, before you start this utility, that you have your installation key . More times then not when performing this operation, you will need it to activate before you can use the system. I would the proceed to install the proper divers for your particular vid device. Check to se if Omega Drivers has a driver for you, they are bar none better then any other driver out there, and specifically designed for the device.

As a rule , it should show up like you say, but if the enclosure is advanced a bit, then it may take the CD that came with it to work with the device. Just a thought. Another thing, did you send the HDD with the laptop ? Was the HDD "messed up ? is that the reason for the return ? Could it be that the file structure is missing on the HDD ? Have you tried to boot from it via startup options on either laptop to se if it can be recognized that way ? Did you run the new hardware wizard ?

So many smart bro users enable DHCP , and lose there connection instantly, I wonder why there is no warning of this. You have lost the Ip address that had been programmed into your network adapter. Go into the network adapter and click on properties, then to (TCP/IP) put 169.254.3.3 Subnet Mask 255.255.0.0, then goto internet explorer / firefox whatever, and put 169.254.1.1 in the address bar , this may or may not work, depending on if you changed it in the canopy or not. If nothing seems to work, you can try this method. WARNING: During the process, you will be disconnected from the internet, but of course you'll be able to get back afterwards. So I suggest you copy and paste this tutorial on Notepad for a safer reference. Part 1: Configuring the LAN Setting Follow the steps carefully: 1. Go to Control Panel, and then onto Network Connections. You should see your Local Area Connection. Right click on it and click Properties. 2. A new window pops-up, which says "Local Area Connection Properties". On the General tab, there should be a box which contains a list with checkboxes beside them. Scroll down to the bottom and you should see the Internet Protocol (TCP/IP) item. Double click it. 3. Another window pops-out. It says "Internet Protocol (TCP/IP) Properties" and you should be on the General tab. There are two options there enabled by default: Obtain an IP address automatically and Obtain DNS server address automatically. Now read these carefully: * Click on Use the following IP address option. Enter these data: * IP address: 10.20.30.40 * Subnet mask: 255.0.0.0 * Default gateway: leave it blank * Click on Use the following DNS Server addresses: * Preferred DNS server: leave it blank * Alternate DNS server: leave it blank * After you entered correctly all the data, press Ok. 4. You are back at the Local Area Connection Properties window. Press Ok to apply the changes. Wait for a moment for the changes to take effect. By this time you will be disconnected from the internet. But dont worry, you'll be able to be back of course (just refer to PART 4 to know how to get back to the internet). PART 2: The Canopy IP Address Quest Now you need to know your Canopy IP Address. There are two ways, as follows: Safe Method: o Go to Start -> Run -> cmd.exe. On the command promt, type arp -a (take note of the space after the word arp).The command prompt will display several IP addresses. Example: C:Documents and Settingsgiluk_no_jutsu>arp -a Interface: 10.20.30.40 --- 0x2 Internet Address Physical Address Type 10.0.0.1 0a-00-3e-f7-de-2d dynamic 10.247.222.45 0a-00-3e-f7-de-2d dynamic So my Canopy IP Address would be 10.247.222.45. PART 3: Into the Forbidden Domain we Hack! Note: Make sure you have done the set-up on Part 1 before proceeding. 1. Open your web browser and enter your Canopy IP address on the address bar. You will be brought to the Canopy Homepage. 2. On the left side of the Canopy page, you should see a navigation box. Click Configuration. 3. Click on the Quality of Service (QoS) Tab. You should see your Bandwidth Settings. Take a look at your Sustained Uplink Data Rate and Sustained Downlink Data Rate. By default they should be both at 256. See? Those are your default download and upload limits. Kinda sucks right? 4. Alright, so listen well. Change both of the Uplink and Downlink values to 500. Actually you can set the values to any number you like as long as their total would be 1000 (eg: you can have your downlink: 600 and uplink: 400, or you can have downlink: 700 and uplink: 300). However, The recommended value for both uplink and downlink rates is both at 500. So I suggest you have the recommended value as well. Click the Save Changes button. 5. The screen should say Reboot Required. So press the Reboot button. By this time, your Local Area Connection icon on your tray area (botton-right side of your desktop) should have an X mark on it. Just wait for a while until that X mark disappears. That's it. PART 4: Getting Back Online The last thing you need to do is to connect back to the internet. 1. So go back to Control Panel, and then onto Network Connections. You should see your Local Area Connection. Right click on it and click Properties. 2. A new window pops-up, which says "Local Area Connection Properties". On the General tab, there should be a box which contains a list with checkboxes beside them. Scroll down to the bottom and you should see theInternet Protocol (TCP/IP) item. Double click it. 3. Another window pops-out. It says "Internet Protocol (TCP/IP) Properties" and you should be on the General tab. Now click on Obtain IP address automatically and Obtain DNS server automatically. Press Ok. 4. You're back at the Local Area Connection Properties window. Again Press Ok. Wait for a moment for the changes to take effect.

Unlike other connections such as standard DSL , cable, dial up, this type of connection is very specific to bandwidth. Here's a reference, * DS0 - 64 k

No, it doesn't work like that with a fractional T1. The lines get what they get by the mathematics of it. Well you have to understand the way this type of connection works, it is "capped" were all capped in a sense. You can only get a certain amount of bandwidth with a T1, now when they install it, as a rule, there are more lines run, for obvious future upgrade options, there very well may be 24 lines run, if it was done standard, then the connections possibilities could be up to 1.5 something Mbps. This might cost near $1000.00 and upwards per month. The cost might be close to that now, but chances are, it's between $350.00 and 500. a month for that connection. But it is needed for if, and when users want to use it on a full saturday night. There may be other options in your area, like having a cable ISP set up a "hotspot" contract. But without the type of connection you have now, unless there's a decent provoder in the area, and you get a full house and there trying to use it, then forget it. But as you said, no one really uses it.

First thing here, a T1 line is a very consistent dedicated line directly from the nearest backbone, it's perfect for such places as a hotel, or a small business. Each user will be able to obtain the same speeds, without waiver. Generally, a T1(DSL) line such as your speaking of, will range from 256 Kbps -1.5, my thoughts are one of the two, there's something not quite configured properly withing the modem / router, or ithe connection isn't really a T1, it's a ISDN line, (two DS0 lines ) only thing is , this might be a fiber line Vs. a copper, because a copper would be 128 Kbps. Can you find out the ISP, and what the line terminates into, is it a "transformer " or a modem type ? Are there phone lines that run withing a switch ? Or are the phones separate. Depending on the age, this could easily be VoIP, maybe Cisco equipment Nortel, many others. Find out what you can about the devices.

Well that all depends on what your paying for through your provider, the speed that your test results show is not a bad speed, but without knowing what you should be getting, there is no way of telling if there is any room for improvement. There are ways to adjust settings in your system, and network devices that will allow you to get the most out of your connection, even if your close to your maximum speed. To do this, these guy's will need to know a few things about what were dealing with, such as what operating system your running, what network deices you have attached, basic "stuff" like this will get the conversation rolling.

I'm sure someone will let you know what you can do with your connection, although looking at the rest of the stats from smart , your getting about the average speed, there are exceptions. What speed do ou think you should be getting ?

This topic has been moved to Smart Bro (Wi-fi). [iurl]http://www.testmy.net/forum/index.php?topic=27269.0[/iurl]

First off, you can't open a disk like that, you can brows it, or other "things" but there will be no "program per say " to open any disk like that. Right click on it and you should be able to brows it. But it's not like a document, or a text file or a media file, what your attempting to accomplish would be like trying to open a piece of paper, see what I mean ? You can lokk at a piece of paper, read whats on it, but you can't open it.

Your doing something right fastdan

...........

I'll be on the lookout for your goblins mamaT

Are you running more then one OS on the same disk ? if not, then windows should have taken care of that at the during of the install. The drive wipe may not have gotten rid of everything, did you use boot and nuke , and write "0's" to the drive before a new installation ? If thats possible with B&N.....

The CPU will do that when idle, it has something to do with heat dissipation. Since you recently started to notice a slowdown, it's best to run viral / bot / any type of malware scans in safe mode while the chance is better that "it" isn't running in memory and can be seen, removed.

This would be the first place I would be looking.

:::.. Download Stats ..::: Download Connection is:: 18195 Kbps about 18.2 Mbps (tested with 25600 kB) Download Speed is:: 2221 kB/s Tested From:: https://testmy.net/ (Main) Test Time:: 2009/10/29 - 2:44pm Bottom Line:: 317X faster than 56K 1MB Download in 0.46 sec Tested from a 25600 kB file and took 11.526 seconds to complete Download Diagnosis:: Awesome! 20% + : 222.09 % faster than the average for host (rr.com) D-Validation Link:: https://testmy.net/stats/id-HKS4FNXOD User Agent:: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; U; Intel Mac OS X 10.5; en-US; rv:1.9.1.3) Gecko/20090824 Firefox/3.5.3 [!]