cholla

FaT_PHiL :I think I can help with the _RESTORE problem.I'm still trying to figure out why you can't format even from inside Windows.My thoughts on this are possibly there is an administrative password & without it it won't format;I'm not sure if deleting the password list files will remove the administrator password if there is one. or somekind of out of memory problem.It could even be the _RESTORE so lets work on that first.First go to Control Panel SystemPerformanceFile SystemTroubleshooting here check "Disable System Restore" .Then OK &OK .You may already have this disabled but this is the first step.This will remove all the restore points so if a virus is hiding there it will be removed. This is the next part: At the command prompt type: ATTRIB -H -R -S C:_RESTORE If you do this inside Windows the MSDOS comand prompt will be C:WINDOWS> you need to type: cd at the prompt. This will give you C:> At the command prompt type: ATTRIB -H -R -S C:_RESTORE enter then close MSDOS Open Windows Explorer(My Computer) C: drive(if thats where you have Windows) R. click on the _RESTORE folder & delete it. R. click again in the C: window in the white blank area Select: NewText Document name it: _RESTORE with no extension This last step keeps the _Restore folder from returning the file stays at 0KB if you don't do this Windows will create a new _RESTORE folder & fill it the same way the old one was. This should completly remove the _RESTORE except for the empty file. I leave my OS like this but if you want restore enabled you need to reverse all of this.But the virus should be removed.To close the ATTRIB you use ATTRIB +H +R +S C: _RESTORE If you want to edit your MSDOS.SYS like the screenshot I posted above you need to do this: If you are inside Windows select StartProgramsAccessoriesMS-DOS Prompt at the C:Windows> type cd Enter this should give you the C:> At the prompt type ATTRIB -H -R -S C:MSDOS.SYS paying attention to the spaces Enter.At the prompt type EDIT MSDOS.SYS Enter.You should be in the edit screen make the changes you wany.You have to navigate with your keyboard arrows.Add or change the settings you want.then use Alt key to go to the top menu bar pull down the File menu select Save then exit.reboot.The one to leave alone is your bootgui. I will see what I can find on the Administrator password & format.To close the ATTRIB you use ATTRIB +H +R +S C:MSDOS.SYS

FaT_PHiL : I guess I've been lucky on worms & viruses .Ive only had a few & all were removed when I did AVG & Spybot & adaware in safe mode.I usually just ran all 3. I'll see what I can find on the login.I guess you have his login & password? Do you just want to not mess with a login at all? This is the way I have my OS.I just need to remember how I did it. Heres some info on the login.I just web surfed for it .I think the method I use is the Windows Logon in Network but it depends on your network.anyway read through it & see if something works.Then post what does. Windows 95/98/Me (If you don't have multiple users configured): Open Control Panel, and double-click on the Network icon. From the list entitled Primary Network Logon:, choose Windows Logon, and press OK. Note: If this doesn't work, make sure you didn't initially configure a password for yourself. If you did, Windows 98 will always require it. Double-click on the Passwords icon in Control Panel to choose nothing (leave it blank) for your password. Windows 95/98/Me (If you do have multiple users configured): Run the Registry Editor (REGEDIT.EXE). Open HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE Network Logon. Double-click on the Process Logon Script value, and change the data from 00 00 00 00 to 00 00 00 01 Windows 95/98/Me (If nothing else works): Install Tweak UI, and double-click the Tweak UI icon in Control Panel. Choose the Network tab, and check the Log on automatically at system startup option. Type your username (shown after Log Off in your Start Menu) and your password (leave it blank if you don't have one), and click Ok when you're done. 1.After boot up at Login screen: leave username as it is, leave password blank and choose OK. You're logged in by YOUR OWN USERNAME and without password. You should be able to enter your LAN now, 2.Check -if not- in Networkneighbourhood Properties that Windows Logon is enabled, 3.Start up Regedit and go to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINENetworkLogon and make the next changes: "LMLogon"="0"; "PrimaryProvider"=""; "username"="-YOUR OWN USERNAME-"; 4.Exit Regedit and reboot, 5.You should not see the login screen anymore and finally you can disable the "Show Logoff" in the Taskbar and Start Menu settings. You can proceed this at any workstation in your LAN. found that deleting the Autologon reg key in the following path solved all my issues: HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionNetworkReal Mode Net See Microsoft Knowledge Base Article - 141858 For more details So, there is just one default user profile on your computer, and somehow you are now getting the prompt to Logon to Windows with a username and password just before the Windows 95/98 Desktop appears at startup. This has probably happened either because someone somewhere along the line has entered a password for the default username (and yes, clicking "Cancel" gets you into Windows), or someone has been in Control Panel and changed the settings to allow multiple user profiles. Of course, if you are using multiple user profiles then the logon prompt is necessary and you wouldn't want to disable it. Windows networking components can also cause a password logon at startup, namely if Client for Microsoft Networks is the Primary Network Logon. Primary Network Logon If you are just using Dial-Up Networking and are not on a LAN Network of any type, then you can change the Primary Network Logon. If you are on a LAN, I would not mess with this. Consult someone who is in the know about your network configuration. Go to Start/Settings/Control Panel and double-click the Network icon. You will see a drop list under Primary Network Logon. Choose Windows Logon for this. I don't have many networking components installed, only what I need. I am using Windows Family Logon, it is the default when you install Windows 98. I do not have a password prompt problem at startup though. In Windows 95 you may have Client for Microsoft Networks installed and it could be the source of the password prompt if it's the Primary Network Logon. User Profiles If the above doesn't apply to you, the next step is to go to Start/Settings/Control Panel and double-click the Passwords icon. Click the User Profiles tab and ensure that it is set to all users use same preferences (it may already be set to that in which case proceed to the next step below). Delete Password List Files The next step here is to delete any password list files. These have the extension .pwl and can be found in the Windows directory. The easiest way to deal with this, since you may not know the actual filename of the pwl file, is to use the Find utility and search for all files with that extension. To do this, click the Start button, and choose Find and choose Files or Folders. Enter *.pwl in the search field and click Find Now and let it search your hard drive. The asterisk is a wild card that tells it to search for any file with the .pwl file extension. When it is finished, it will display all .pwl files. Right-click on each of them (may be only one) and choose Delete. After they have been removed, the next step is to reboot the computer. When the Password Prompt appears, enter a username but NO password. Leave the password field blank, don't even click your mouse in it. Click OK and click OK again to what comes next. That should be it, Windows should no longer prompt you to logon at startup. Windows will, however, create a new .pwl file (but won't prompt you). Reboot again to verify that you were successful in alleviating this irritation.

Ther is a way to remove his login & password I just don't remember how.I don't use a password for my windows .Just the IBM one on reboot.On the worm have you tried running your AV& spyware programs in safe mode to remove this worm?

The boot disk I posted should have the RAM drive on it all you have to do is select it by typeing the correct drive letter & enter.It is just a virtual drive the boot disk loads. Windows ME doesn't use config.sys it is blank on my OS anyway. I really don't think scandisk will do much at this point. At the C: prompt type scanreg /restore if you have a registry that is there & you think it might be good you could try that. You probably don't need the screen shot I'm posting at this point but might find it useful later.This is how I have my MSDOS.SYS setup.

FaT_PHiL : I had to go play with the start up disk on mine to see if I could help.Its been a while since I needed it.I think the stack problem is because this is the stacks in the floppy. In the list the startup disk gives there should be 1.Help select that one.Read it if you want to. To leave the help screen you use your Alt key this will take you to the pull downs on the help screen. use your keyboard arrow keys to pull down the files & select exit. This will take you to the A: prompt.You need to change to the Microsoft RAM drive to format C: Pay attention when it is booting up it should have which drive this will be. But lets say it is D: for example type D: at the A: prompt & hit enter.this should change the prompt to D: Now type DIR at the prompt the list should have format if this is the RAM drive .If not D: keep trying E: & so on.If the list is too long you can type dir /w/p at the prompt.The only real long one is Windows.I think both the A: & ram drive have fdisk.

FaT_PHiL : Looks like you already got a startupdisk.This is a zpi with my Windows me startup disk incase you want it.My zipping software is 7Zip it is supposed to work with winzip.Its freeware so you can DL it off the internet if you need zip software.

fikester : I guess I will have to look at the Dish for new customers Pkg.But what I posted is what I pay about $2.00 is tax.I only have 1 receiver.So maybe they are screwing the old customers a little.I don't know how I could get the new customer deal though.I would probably have to cancel : wait awhile then sign another 1 year contract.

t1wireless : On the complaint just call their service dept & tell them you have static & echo on your line.They are supposed to give you good quality voice service.I doubt if they will replace the service line to your house unless it is physically damaged .Like there are bare spots where the outer cover is coming off. If your NID box is this old they will probably replace it.One thing the NID box has in a couple of "carbon" I think lightening supressog that wear after time.The new box should correct this. I think you can only get a data line if you can get DSL.They won't put one in for just phone servive.There are some technecal reasons (if what I have read is correct & it may have been disinformaton to keep customers from asking for a data only non DSL line) that removing the load coils & other distance additions from the line won't help data transmission.I reall didn't understand why. Now for the bad news the FCC only requires your voice quality phone line to be 14K so I don't know why the complaint about it corrected his speed.Make the voice quality complaint first & see if it helps.If it doesn't then try complaining about the data speed. My internal modem usually connects at 40K but I have an external that will not connect above 28K no matter how it's tweaked so it can be the modem.But again if you can hear line problems the you have a problem the phone company is required to fix.So that is where you need to start.

I've had Dish be out 30 minutes to an hour in a thunderstorm but in the Texas Panhandle we sometimes have 70mph+ winds with a thunder storm.I have never had snow even heavy snow interupt the signal.Overall a much better picture than cable which almos any wind above 10mph began to produce a poorer picture by the time it got to 70mph the cable almot always went out sometime for several hours.Btw I had the cable from the pole replaced & still had the problem.Probably underground would have fixed it.I don't know how the cable co.would have felt about that since everything in my neighborhood is in the air.So the would have had to run it down the pole & across the alley & I would have had to do the undergroun work on my property.There cables that connected to mine would have still been in the air.So this would probably have ben a lot of work & expense for little benefit.So I'm much better satisfied with the Dish. Does any one use one of the 'Big" dishes ?I see them but don't know anyone wth one.What do they recieve these days?How much is free?

You can give these a try if you want to.The first is a link to the PC-Doctor DL HP has This one didn't have the erase hard drive my IBM one does only diagnostics. http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/genericSoftwareDownloadIndex?cc=us&lc=en&softwareitem=pv241en&jumpid=reg_R1002_USEN HP also says you should have this file: C:Program FilesPC-Doctor for Windows XP If you do it may have the full version you can burn to a CD. The one below is the DL link for the IBM one I use.It let me DL it But I have an IBM.If it will let you DL it it will work for floppy or CD.Just choose the one you want. http://www-306.ibm.com/pc/support/site.wss/document.do?sitestyle=ibm&lndocid=MIGR-58112&velxr-layout=print If you get it burned to CD just restart yout PC with the CD in the drive.Like I posted previously .You may need to set up the CD as your primary start in your BIOS. In the program under utility there is full hard drive erase & quick Hard drive erase. Highlight ,press F1 & read the help to see which one you want.The full rewrites all clusters.You will have nothing on the HD after this.It also takes quite awhile to do this erase. DL unzip it with your zip program. Then copy the files to your cd.This should give you a PCDoctor that will completly erase your HD.

wyantm06: What are you trying to get your screen to look like?I have Windows ME & can do a lot with the Windows OEM display.I can't beleive XP won't do a least as much.

I don't have XP but I guessing you do.If so do they have a format feature possibly.On the XP installation CD Do you have a CDROM drive? If you do you probably need to go into your BIOS & set it up as your Primary start drive so it can be started outside of Windows. You can do a format of C; from My Computer(Explorer) I don't know if it's a " total destructive format " I have software called PC Doctor supplied by my PC manufacturer(IBM) but apparently the supply several PC manufacturers .So you might be able to get a copy from your PC manufacturer.Mine is on floppy but I don't see why you couldn't burn it to CD.It has a hard drive through erase selection.That might be more than you want. this is a link to PC Doctor site.This links you to PC manufacturers they supply.You can see if yours is on the list.IBM gave me the DL free. http://www.pc-doctor.com/support/bundle.htm

wyantm06: Is XP different than ME on the color selection. My display properties accessable from control panel or R.click on the desktop will let me use about any color I want. It doesn't have as much individual button control as the Window Blinds does in the screen shot coknuck showed .

tdawnaz: That's a good one the oldest post its possible to find.

I was able to get what I posted from member profiles.I did this with the URL & member numbers.That's how I was able to see who was #1 by the URL anyway.If there is a list that shows this information I don't know where it is. Swimmer: I didn't look for my first post I don't think I even want to see it.

Swimmer:I don't have a HD television but it is supposed to be HD.I probably have the lowest price package available.It initially required a 1 year contract.It does have pay per veiw so the costs go up if you use that. pitbull481: Ocasionally heavy rain will stop the signal but not every rain does this only a real down pour.Its windy here & I haven't had wind cut signal.btw the wind really affected the signal when I had cable. That would probably be a loose dish problem.Mine is roof mounted if it was pole mounted it might not even have the rain problem.I wanted mine mounted in a less visable place on my house so it isn't where the installer origionally put it.This did slightly lower signal stregnth.

coknuck: It is tdawnaz

I don't know how to find that many don't give their ages & some give false ages.I don't know of a profile list available to me that would list the ages specially in order. I know coknuck is older than me & I would bet Palidin is the oldest at 72.

I have Dish basic 60 channel package 1 reciever.I have had it for about 4 years now.This is the total monthly price tax & all. $31.86

The answer is there is no number 1 .I will see if I can find the first other than CA3LE.Would be #3 Ryuben but only 1 post so not an active member. Other than CA3LE these are the first 2 active #5 mrp 38 posts last active February 19, 2006, #13 Microwave Global Moderator posts 1809 Last Active: April 20, 2005, 10:35:43 PM

fonfixer; Welcome to the forum & thanks for the contribution.If I termed anything wrong in the descriptions above please let me know.What I put above I think is pretty typical for those of us who can only get dial-up.We should be so lucky as to get fiber-to-curb .The one I called an A/d jump is correct isn't it? There is a Hyperterminal to telesync test I have a topic in the forum about.For some it shows A/d converters on their loop.Sometimes more than 1.I wil get a link to the test & post it here. http://www.testmy.net/forum/index.php?topic=4277.msg39109#msg39109

I was out in the Arizona desert looking up at the sunset when I tripped over CA3LE writting the script for the site. That's a better story than I Googled for it.

t1wireless;I did some surfing so I could have an example of the terminal boxes.I think it gives the you qualify for SBC because it is their test.If you don't have SBC or know you are too far then their sales pitch is wrong.But it gives you the results for at least some indication of your line stregnth. http://www.testmy.net/forum/index.php?topic=12373.msg123451#msg123451

These get talked about in Dial-up & sometimes DSL.I will work to improve this topic.Here is what I have for now: If you have underground phone wiring in your neighborhood, as opposed to phone wiring that runs in the air on poles, then you will frequently see these little boxes all over your neighborhood -- one for every two or three houses or so. A typical box in the southeastern United States might look like this: This box is two or three feet (about a meter) high and perhaps 8 inches (20 cm) square. What runs into your house for each telephone line is a pair of copper wires. What is running through your neighborhood is a thick underground cable containing perhaps 25 or 50 pairs of copper wires. The little green box is a place where the 50-pair cable pops out of the ground so that a phone company employee can splice into it. They happen to be building a new subdivision nearby, and here is what one of the boxes looks like during construction: You can see that this is a very simple installation. They've taken the cable, removed its outer protective sheathing to reveal all of the wires, and then spliced into several of the pairs for the two or three houses sharing the box (the small clear plastic blocks are the splices). Small two-pair cables run underground from the box to the houses. Sometimes the splices won't be quite this simple -- there will be a plastic or ceramic plate inside with a junction block instead of direct splices. So where does the 25-pair or 50-pair cable come from? If you hunt around your neighborhood, you will find a larger box that looks like this: SAI telephone cross connect box Also called PCP box This box is perhaps 4 feet or 5 feet high (1.5 meters). A larger cable with hundreds of wire pairs runs past this point, and one or more 25-pair or 50-pair wires gets its start here. Inside the box is a large punch-down panel where phone company employees attach each pair in the smaller cable to the correct pairs in the larger cable. The larger cable will often get its start at a box like this: This is the A/D jump I beleive. This box is about 6 feet (2 meters) high and 12 feet (4 meters) wide. You can see on the right that this box also has its own power meter, and therefore has power (unlike the previous boxes, which have contained nothing but passive splices). Inside this large powered box are digitizers. The pairs from each house attach to the digitizers so that all of the phone calls in the area can be carried on a much smaller set of wires. This box might accept a number of larger lines (like T1 or T3 lines) carrying voice channels, and the digitizers break down the multiplexed lines into individual pairs. The multiplexed lines might travel down the road as copper, fiber optic or coaxial cables. Eventually the multiplexed lines arrive at a switch which might look like this: This building has no windows and is perhaps 50 feet (15 meters) square. This would be the CO terminal or switch.In some cases this is inside your telephone company offices.

t1wireless ;Your CO is your telephone companies main terminal It can be a remote terminal sometimes but thats not the big green boxes.The best way to find you line or loop distance is unfortunatly calling you phone company & finding someone there that can tell you.They should know but finding a tech that can is sometimes not as easy as it should be.The dslreports test shows mine at 16800 ft but the phone company says 26800 so I accept their distance. If you can try one of your modems a your cousins to see the connection speed.I had an external 56K modem that would never connect faster than 28K even when the internal connected at40K so it might be your modem.The more than one a/d jump is supposed to be a problem on speed so that could be it.I'm all copper to the CO so I haven't had to go through the analog to digital conversion before it gets to the CO.Thats what the a/d jump does. Were you able to use the Hyperterminal 'data line quality test" I posted?It doesn't work for everyone I know ROM_DOS was able to use it & boywonder did.MUFFIN couldn't . I really don't know if it would improve gaming I don't online game.But latency is the main problem with gaming from what other posts have said. I was reading a couple of articles that said you get between 46 ms & 100 ms with dial-up automatically no matter what.And this applies to each modem so teaming doesn't help .