organ_shifter

Sunbelt Kerio Personal Firewall: Version: 4.2.3.912

This thread may help as well: http://www.testmy.net/forum/index.php?topic=12376.msg123603#msg123603

Thxz Swimmer I just hope that it helps x_6985381 in making good choices. I returned my 7800GS back to Best Buy (wasn't powerful enough) just so I can order an X1800XT 512MB along with a socket 754 PCI Express motherboard from Newegg. Gonna throw my Zalman VF700CU (which I couldn't use with the 7800GS) on it and call it a day. Can someone tell me if any of the current graphics cards are DX10 ready? I'm thinking it will be the Radeon X2000 series (R600 core)/nVidia 8000 series (G80 core) scheduled for this fall that are the chosen ones.

Between these two graphics cards if you wan't 256MB: Radeon X1800XT 256MB 256-bit GDDR3 VIVO PCI Express x16 Video Card Geforce 7900GT CO 256MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express x16 Video Card If your graphics card is AGP, get this: Geforce 7800GS CO Superclock 256MB 256-bit GDDR3 AGP 4X/8X Video Card Between these if you want 512MB of DDR3: Radeon X1800XT 512MB 256-bit GDDR3 VIVO PCI Express x16 Video Card Radeon X1900XTX 512MB 256-bit GDDR3 VIVO PCI Express x16 Video Card Geforce 7900GTX Superclocked 512MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express x16 Video Card Best gaming memory "Corsair": Corsair (XMS Series) Cas Latency: 2 Best gaming memory "OCZ": OCZ Technology, Inc. Cas Latency: 2 Best gaming memory "Crucial": Crucial Technology Cas Latency: 2 Best gaming memory "Mushkin": Mushkin Enhanced Memory Cas Latency: 2 Internal Hard Drives "SATA" 16MB Cache: Internal Hard Drives Cache: 16MB Interface: SATA 3.0Gb/s Internal Hard Drives "IDE" 16MB Cache: Internal Hard Drives Cache: 16MB Interface: IDE Ultra ATA133 Internal Hard Drives RPM: 15,000 RPM: Internal Hard Drives RPM: 15,000 RPM Internal Hard Drives RPM: 10,000 RPM: Internal Hard Drives RPM: 10,000 RPM This is what I gathered for you from the limited info provided. I highly suggest that you get a Radeon X1800XT 512MB for the video card. For that price, you get a steal. It's highly overclockable and is faster than the 7900GT while it's OC'd. I would also go with OCZ or Corsair XMS for my gaming memory.

Welcome to the best forums in the known world spider0526. Enjoy your stay. As far as I can tell, your speeds seem to be up to par. A new modem makes a world of difference with Mediacon. See here: http://www.testmy.net/forum/t-12464 Nice speeds.

I use a Lightscribe DVD/CD burner, so I burn my labels, covers, etc. directly onto the disc itself. However, the following site might be useful to you as the covers offered may work for printing as well. LightscribeCovers.Com The software I use is SureThing CD DVD Labeler Deluxe which offers printing as well as burning labels directly to the disc. There is a free version offered directly through Lightscribe at the following link which also gets the job done. See here: SureThing 4 SE Hope this helps you out. Good luck!

Well, because this is not a wares community. We do not condone the creation of threads which are intended to illegally spread cd/app key codes, cracks, or anything designed to bypass the developer's attempt to keep their program safe from people who want it for free. If you want a key, buy the application. Please refrain from creating any more threads of this criteria. -Locked-

KVCD should be the best quality wise for standard CD-Rom's, but SVCD just as good and would be my preference. I wouldn't waste my time converting/burning VCD's. The quality leaves a lot to be desired. As far as a program which can convert all of these files types, I use Xilisoft Video Converter. It gets the job done for me without issue. I've attached a couple of modified screenshots of the program which explains some of it's key features. EDIT: Get the program from Xilisoft Video Converter

:::.. Upload Stats ..::: Connection is:: 1393 Kbps about 1.4 Mbps (tested with 2992 kB) Upload Speed is:: 170 kB/s Tested From:: https://testmy.net (main) Test Time:: 2006/03/16 - 11:36am Bottom Line:: 25X faster than 56K 1MB Upload in 6.02 sec Tested from a 2992 kB file and took 17.59488 seconds to complete Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 6.0; Windows NT 5.1; InfoPath.1; .NET CLR 1.1.4322) Diagnosis: Awesome! 20% + : 278.53 % faster than the average for host (comcast.net) Validation Link:: https://testmy.net/stats/id-57A80FUHD

Click on Start/All Programs/Control Panel. Once open, double click Internet Options. Inside Internet Options, click the Security tab, select Internet directly below that tab, and click Custom Level at the bottom. Once inside, copy the selections from the Part_8.jpg attached photo. After you're finished, click Apply and OK your way back to the desktop. Although it may not be necessary, I'd reboot and start fresh (if you don't have any serious activities going on). Hope this helps.

My results: 3DMARK06 BFG GeForce 7800GS OC AGP 256MB (475/1440) Futuremark Link

I picked up a 7800GS AGP back on Feb 18th. The card is pretty sweet. Just thought I would update my results for the following tests: PCMark05 BFG GeForce 7800GS OC AGP 256MB (475/1440) Futuremark Link 3DMark01SE ATI RADEON 9700 PRO (AMD 3200+) Futuremark Link BFG GeForce 7800GS OC AGP 256MB (475/1440) Futuremark Link 3DMark03 BFG GeForce 7800GS OC AGP 256MB (475/1438) Futuremark Link 3DMark05 BFG GeForce 7800GS OC AGP 256MB (499/1440) Futuremark Link

Yes, if you want to preserve your original copy of the game, Clone CD will make a backup copy of it. Between Starforce, Securom, and Safedisc copy protections, you may not be able to play the game with the backup disc although it will install just fine. The original disc may be required. However, there are programs out there which allow you to play the games without the actual cd being inserted, hence, solving that problem. Legitimate, gaming applications (excluding No-CD patches). Here's one: Game Jackal 2 Game Jackal Play all your favorite games without inserting a single cd! Using your game's original CD or DVD, create a Game Jackal profile that enables you to play your favourite games directly from the hard drive... CD-Free! Once a profile has been created the CD or DVD can then be put away for safe keeping, protecting your gaming investment for years to come and ensuring hunting for and inserting a game

Personally, I like the combination of AnyDVD/CloneDVD. Here: SlySoft You don't truely need CloneDVD as any dvd writing software will not see the protection once AnyDVD is installed. Check out this very interesting thread from a few years back (Here) which started out with a simple question, but ended up drawing the attention of... Olli (Original author of CloneCD and CloneDVD Author), Fengtao (DVDidle Author), and LIGHTNING UK! (Author of DVD Decrypter) These three guys have top programs on the market for backing up/cloning your DVD/CD's, and you really get a feel for what each program can do. Insight is also given on why Adaptec ASPI "sucks", in the words of Olli. Although I have been using AnyDVD for years now (still have my Elaborate Bytes versions from back in the day), this thread further confirmed my reasons of sticking with the software. It's simply great!

Check your pm if you want to get the job done.

Kaspersky Security Suite package comes with a firewall solution doesn't it? I haven't used the suite in quite some time, but I thought that it included an firewall app titled Anti-Hacker or something like that. The stand alone version of Kaspersky Personal Pro (which I use) comes with protection from network attacks, but that alone isn't anywhere near the security that a firewall gives you. If the suite doesn't have a firewall, you should look into getting one. There are good, free versions available to you. Kaspersky is the best AV on the market. See here: WWW.Virus.GR

I agree. So all your problems were from the damn jumper? Wow! After we covered just about everything else, I would have never thought of that being the problem. I'm not sure, but leaving it open sound pretty safe to me. Good thing you tried it.

Some of the best 3 dimensional art I've ever seen. Amazing work!

Was the system running before without any issues from the HD & DVD Rom being on the same IDE? Clearing the cmos would be my first choice. That would allow you to start fresh and redetect everything. Yes.

There should be a jumper or cmos reset switch on the mothboard. You should refer to the manual to be sure. If using the jumper, just move it over to the opposite two pins for 2 seconds and then replace it. Start the system and follow the prompts to enter setup. If using the button/switch, just press it once and start the system and follow the prompts to enter setup.

Formatting your hard drive won't solve the problem of the dvd rom not reading a disc. That is a hardware issue that needs to be resolved before you can even start installing. FDISK won't accomplish what you are trying to get done. You have to find out what's causing the dvd drive to not read discs first. You hard drive should be attached to the Primary IDE Controller by itself (providing that it's not SATA) or in combination with another hard drive attached to the same IDE cable's slave option. The DVD/CD rom should be attached to the Secondary IDE Controller by itself or in combination with another DVD/CD rom attached to the same IDE cable's slave option. (If the hard drive is SATA, you'll have the DVD/CD rom attached to the Primary IDE controller instead) Once you troubleshoot that problem, installing your OS from the CD-ROM will give you formatting options right from the installation disc (Quick or Standard). If it's a must that you use FDISK, then that's exactly what you type at the command prompt from a Windows 98SE bootdisk (fdisk). You will then have to choose whether or not you wan't large disk support. Enter "Y" if you want to enable FAT32, or "N" if you do not want to enable FAT32. If you do enable this, any partitions over 500 MB that you create will be FAT32. Note that if you do not enable FAT32, you will not be able to put your entire hard disk into one partition if it is greater than 2 GB in size.. From there, you'll proceed to create a partition. Rebooting the system back to the bootdisk's command prompt will be required. Once there, you will need to type format c: /s. Do not forget the "/s", as this is what will make your C: drive bootable. You will get a "scary" warning message such as "WARNING, ALL DATA ON NON-REMOVABLE DISK DRIVE C: WILL BE LOST. Proceed with Format (Y/N)?". Since of course there is no data presently on drive C:, just enter "Y" and the system will format the hard disk. The program will show you its progress as it formats and at the end will prompt you for a volume label. Enter one if you wish. EDIT: There have been quite a few posts since I started writing this, but I still wanted to put it up.

I had been running Windows XP 64 Bit Edition as my main OS for a few months. I didn't like all the issues that I kept running into (drivers for certain things that I use everyday was a big issue). I decided to uninstall it. When Vista 5308_FebCTP first dropped, the plan was to run it as my primary OS. Unfortunately, it wasn't ready for main use at all. So many things were not optimizing correctly. Although I did manage to get lots of things that were not currently of use to me to stop starting up with the system, things were not functioning smoothly enough. Explorer.exe runs into errors on a regular basis and has to restart so often. On top of that, there is just not enough support available right now to enjoy it full time. Vista 5308 is nothing more than an experimental tease to us right now, but it's fun to play around with nonetheless. If you go into the project thinking as such, you'll be able to deal with it without losing composure. A week after the first FebCTP_5308_32bit dropped (the one I installed), I found out that it was a build aimed solely at programmers/developers and not for the general public to enjoy. Microsoft did make it known that they wouldn't do anything to stop the public from getting it (a more massive feedback source is a good thing). What's more important is that a second build of 5308 also surfaced that same week which was exclusively designed for everyday users. I've yet to go for that version.

I use WM Recorder & RM Recorder. These two programs capture video/audio streams perfectly. There is a free trial available. Clicking on Download from the left will take you to the Replay Video Suite which includes WM Recorder (Windows media), RM Recorder (Real Media) and WM VCR. See here: http://www.wmrecorder.com/index.php

FIOS competition. It'll get to everyone soon enough.