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resopalrabotnick

Transmission Poll

In your opinion, what offers higher performance to you as a driver. Auto or manual. Performance, not 'kewlness'.  

17 members have voted

  1. 1. In your opinion, what offers higher performance to you as a driver. Auto or manual. Performance, not 'kewlness'.

    • Automatic
      3
    • Manual
      14


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Hi Microwave thought I would vote in your pole.I learned to drive in a 1941 Chevy pickup of my granddad's.It had the old 4 speed with a granny gear for first(not synced)I was only 10 at the time.I still drive a manual 4 speed.Shifting without the clutch is really hard on the syncs.You must have been a truckdriver to learn this.Cholla

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i got a old Volvo 745 automatic so it dosent matter if i use manual or Automatic gears, its still a slowass hehe

but if i would buy a new car i would go for a Automatic aswell, todays Automatic gearboxes is so smart that you wont go much faster on a manual gearbox

VanBuren :)

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i got a old Volvo 745 automatic so it dosent matter if i use manual or Automatic gears, its still a slowass hehe

but if i would buy a new car i would go for a Automatic aswell, todays Automatic gearboxes is so smart that you wont go much faster on a manual gearbox

VanBuren :)

True for the most part now-a-days.  Alot of drag racers will stick with the auto over a manual (even though you do have more powertrain loss with an automatic because the torque converter only spins 9 times for every 10 spins of the flywheel) because you get more consistant runs (no fuckin' up) --  My IROC-Z is an auto, and I almost always ran the same time.  My EVO VIII is a manual and though it's a WAY faster car than the Camaro my time from run to run can differ greatly based upon many driving factors (much more touchy).  But my for my IROC-Z I would still rather have a manual if I was given a choice... and if it was for JUST the track I would have to go with a 2 speed HI-LOW... this way you still put the power down, but keep consistancy from run to run.  :)

I am not an expert... but I have driven a Nascar  :evil1: -- as for PURE power... pure SPEED.  How many Nascars have AUTO?  How many Formula1 Racers have AUTO?  How many Porche Series racers have AUTO?  How many Rally Cars have AUTO? --- NONE!  Because you have ten times the control with a manual when it comes to racing... and you deliver more power to the floor over an AUTO.

But I do kinda miss driving auto  :angry3:, I drive the EVO all the time now (not that i mind at all  :twisted:) because the AUTO on my IROC needs work... Ironic this post happened to come up!  :evil6:

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On the flip side, our Jeep Cherokee was recently heavily modified to be a "true" Rock Climber.  Lift kit of 5.5 inches with articulation out-of-this-world, 35x10" tires, new Dana front/rear axles, "air-lockers" for a true 4WD at the push of a button.  They took out the manual and replaced it with an awesome ''on the fly' automatic.  It has several advantages over a manual in the type of terrain that we "play" in, plus the dang thing is smarter when it comes to shifting for max torque when needed the most.  When in low-lock it will climb a sheer-cliff without a thought ...for even better traction just deflate the tires down to six pounds (there is an onboard compressor just for this reason). 

This was an $8,000US upgrade to the vehicle, front to back.  It's a 2002 and had 19,000miles on her at the time of conversion.  Boosted the value beyond belief, and now everything in her has a million mile warranty ..not to mention you don't need a road to drive anyplace!  lol...  She's got the standard 4.0L in her with all the upgrades; new "chip", 200AMP Alternator, MeanGreen starter "yellow top" deep cycle batteries (2) ...you name it, she's got it.  The biggest change came when they put on the new air intake system ..gave me a power boost that blew my mind.  ALL Jeeps (4.0Ls anyway) should have the new air-intake kits installed to let the motor BREATHE ...what a diff it makes!  The timing chain was replaced with timing gears, and that also makes a noticable diff.  I think all engines should move to 'gears' as part of the stock package.  Chains are 'old hat'!

However, for speed/performance driving, I'm from the old school and have better luck 'sticking' to the road using my gearbox versus my braking system.  We had a Viper before leaving the states.  We tried both an auto and manual prior to purchasing and decided that manual 'rules'.  That was an impressive set of wheels there!  I think I would have killed myself with it though ...the temptation was always too great everytime I saw "open road."  heheh...  (I have the tickets to prove it too)!

Cheers!

The boss has a point though, the auto's these days are almost bombproof and in many cases outperform the manuals.  Yet "pure" performance vehicles can always be found with a clutch in them ...I doubt that ever changes...

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I am not an expert... but I have driven a Nascar  :evil1: -- as for PURE power... pure SPEED.  How many Nascars have AUTO?  How many Formula1 Racers have AUTO?  How many Porche Series racers have AUTO?  How many Rally Cars have AUTO? --- NONE!  Because you have ten times the control with a manual when it comes to racing... and you deliver more power to the floor over an AUTO.
Yea for racing manual is the way to go. cos you need to have total control, and adjust gearchange depending on the current situation on the racefield

but just for a acceleration duel between 2 (light waight sportcars)  eg Volvo S 40 T5 automatic vs manual 0-100 KM/h the diff is not very big 6,8/7,2 seconds.

atleast i could live with that  :D

VanBuren :)

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Wow ...I never realised that the diff was so close between auto/manual on the 0-100 scale.  hmm.....  Guess they are more efficient that I've given them credit for, but I'd still rather let my engine do the braking on a fast corner (or accelerate into it) than having an auto "barrel" me through it (and it's worthless downshifting an automatic).  lol...  (IMHO that is)  I'm no racer and my racing knowledge could be held in my CMOS chip.

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well, to explain wht for example f1's don't have auto's: they are banned, because they work too well. the gear changes must be initiated by the driver using paddles or stick or whatever he wants, but the tranny may not shift on its own. same nascar, the cost of developing racing autos to handle the power needed would be too high, so nascar nixed em from the get go. same reason no traction control, antilock, active suspension, stability program etc, etc, etc. i think the only pro racers that would want to have the manual instead of auto are the rally drivers, since they drive a completely different style from others.

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Well I feel old even though I am only 27. But i would say I like the manual over the auto. I learend to drive on a 1962 ford f150 with a straight 6 and a three on the tree. The syncros were all gone so i had to double clutch all of the time. Not to mention the fact people look at you funny when you are moving the colum shifter alot. Now as for speed this truck could smoke the tires for over two blocks but when you hit third gear that was it. It took me 3 miles to go from 15mph to get to 55mph. I did love that truck, lotts of fun in it.

Now as for the tech of the trannys.  Manuals have not changed very much since the 70s-80s. If it aint broke dont fix it you know. Now the autos have come along way in there tech. These trannys messure the amount of loss that they have and keep it at a certant threshold, if they go out of this they throw on the old check engine light. These also have the "infinate shift" automatics which have about a million differant shift points. They still have problems with the slip belts in them though.

Now I think that these new trannys suck!!! I like to beable to feel the vehical shifting. They also will retatrd the timming up to 40degrees just so you dont feel it. :angry5:

Hey Reverend what kind of oiling system do have have on that bad boy?  :?:

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We'll when your in places where i live, you prob want manual as  your choice. Since im in highschool and teenagers enjoy showing off (burning out, violent acceleration, donuts, racing, drag) i enjoy the party  :haha: Makes your look cool  :D

But i dont mind automatic when im tired  :whaa:

BTW just got my  learners permit 2 week ago or so, so in 2-1/2 months ill be drivin allllllll alone  :evil6: Muahahahha the beauty  :roll:

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I have a 1995 Mazda MX6 that I turbo'd and it was an Automatic, i did an auto to manual swap and came to this:

I ran 15.8 with the automatic on 12 psi

I now run 14.9 with the manual on 10 psi.

Its all about what you want.....

Speed and fun vs not so fast but not as tiring

your call

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well, i'm gonna defend the auto, so maybe when you were running the 12 psi you were getting a compression that was too high, causing premature ignition (knocking) and powerloss and engine damage? or the electronics took note of the onset of knocking and riched the fuel mixture accordingly, preventing it but again resulting in powerloss due to too rich a mix.

:-P

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Also, when topping out at higher speeds, for some reason i noticed that automatic seems to be a litle "nicer" then a manual transmition car. Like when you hit top speeds [ what the gov. will allow that is ] an automatic transmition is alot smoother. But mabey it was just the car(s) iv driven. I made this call after yesterday, finding out that due to extensive racing i now need $550 worth of " major maintinance tune-ups " including all spark plug wiring, air, fuel,  temp sensors, ignition coils, etc etc etc  :icon_pale:  :mad2: !!!!

God...i hate cars .....and computers.....

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sorry I wrote the rest of this before I under stood what you meant you were talking about the turbo boost  still this has approximately the same effect it just does it a different way.By forcing more air into the combustion chamber you increase the compressionSo from here on I was talking about something different but related.A 12 to1 compression ratio would be between 190 & 230 psi depending on your info .The fuel available today is to low octane to burn at that compression even the best premium you can get.Aviation fuel mixed with premium & racing addtive would be the best bet to burn fuel at that compression.I will show my age by this but I remember when the cheapest regular(leaded) had an octane of 99.Shell sold a super premium that was 110.this is what was necessary to run the old muscle cars with a 12 to1 compression ratio.a richer mixture is not the same thing as octane its like running with the choke partly closed on a carb system or too high of performance fuel injectors for the engine.it just causes carbon and damps down the explosion with too much fuel toair ratio.thats what stops the knock(pre ignition).If thats not what you meant

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what i meant was the amount of boost. the higher boost you ran on the auto causing effectively a higher compression ratio, that triggering the engine comp to rich up the mixture to prevent knocking, meaning in essence you're making more power at 10 pounds of boost than at 12, hence the faster time on the manual.

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compression is 9:1:1

and no, i have my fuel maps all pinned out and all my computers running off of a Apexi SAFC

if you want easy, boring driving...........automatic

if you want easy, fun, cheaper maintenance by the way for manuals...........get a stick.....

and yes....imports are $$$$

but you get what you pay for

f domestic shit

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compression is 9:1:1

and no, i have my fuel maps all pinned out and all my computers running off of a Apexi SAFC

if you want easy, boring driving...........automatic

if you want easy, fun, cheaper maintenance by the way for manuals...........get a stick.....

and yes....imports are $$$$

but you get what you pay for

f domestic shit

Well if you are replacing a clutch that aint cheap yo, alot cheaper to do simple fluid and filter change

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heh resopalrabotnick: I figured out what you were talking but already had the reply typed. I am going to put an explanation of this you may already know this but for those that don't:A ping or knock is caused by the fuel detonating before the piston reaches top dead center.This can be caused by the ignition(spark) timing being too far advanced.The cause in a high performance engine is usually compression pressure. the pressure explodes the fuel before top dead center before the spark plug fires.

Then the other cylinders & momentum have to push the piston against the explosion to top dead center (causing the knock) before it can complete the power stroke.This causes power loss because the explosion occured before max compression was achieved.The turbo accomplishes the higher compression by forcing more air into the compression chamber this increases the volume of atoms (explodable fuel mixture) in the compressiom chamber,The more volume in the cylinder the higher the compression;the higher the turbo pressure the more volume.Lower octane fuel explodes at lower pressure the too high of compression pressure causes this.So the fuel octane needs to be increaesd until the knock stops for max performance.The pistons have to be made of a material that will handle the pressure but thats another subject.Lowering the turbo pressure lowers the compression stopping the knock & saves the engine  if you can't get the correct fuel.This lowers the max performance below what you would get with the correct octane fuel but increases the current performance by stopping the knock caused by lower octane fuel.I would have tried to explain this with a shorter reply but whole books are written on high performance this is a lot shorter than a book. :cool:Cholla

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