cholla

I'm with tommie on this one .If it's under warranty it should be covered.If it doesn't look like it did new then it has a defect which is what the warranty is for.If this happened to all of them in 6 months then they would not have a warranty. Since you haven't had much luck with Westinghouse physically take it back to Best Buy.& Tell them its defective ^ you want them to replace it because you purchased it from them .& that thet can deal with Westinghouse because they have more clout with them & after all Best Buy bought it from Westinghouse not you.Remind them of that.I bet that gets you a new one.

dlewis23 ;I did a little reading on this yesterday .I will see if I can find a link .on the ADSL2+. That does assume the link information was accurate.I think respalrabotnick has ADSL so maybe I need to ask him (.I hope I spelled respalrabotnick correctly.)

Roco;Heres some info on getting the ducting.you might try.If your interested.I have never bout anything from this company but theve been in business since 1967 according to their site info. Please call 1-800-255-0829 for all orders outside of the United States These are a couple of their contact by e-mail addresses. [email protected] <[email protected]> [email protected] <[email protected]> I think the shipping cost might be a factor.If you do get some let me know how much the shipping was. On the compressed air I guess it's so dry here I've never had much water condensation in my compressor.But I could see this in a humid climate.I guess I would turn off all the power .Probably a ground strap to the metal blower would take care of static. & probably doing it on a PC that had been off several hours wouldn't be a bad idea.

mrproper ;I haven't given up on helping you.I don't understand why the two programs won't restore the registry to where it was when you installed then.I thought CableNut was supposed to do this well.That being said we will go with it the way it is now. I really don't know much about ADSL2+ but I did some reading on it.What I found is it doesn't use the additional 8 bytes the regular DSL does.The extra 8 bytes is why regular DSL uses 1492 for its MTU. ADSL2+ doesn't use the extra 8 bytes so its MTU should be 1500.So you need to see if you can get it there. I need to know that to figure several of the Cablenut settings.If you can't get your router to use the 1500 then the calculations need to be made with 1492. We can work with these 2; These two below should be based on AFD parameters DefaultReceiveWindow DefaultSendWindow This is going to take a lot of testing & restarting on your part as we will try to start low & work up until you start seeing a consistent speed drop. The AFD settings are based on multiples of 4096 bytes. So do this: DefaultReceiveWindow =8192 DefaultSendWindow=8192 If you think you want to speed up the process you can test by using larger multiples lik 4 X 4096 or 8 X 4096 & so on. it must always be a multiple of 2. There is one other CableNut setting (which are really registry settings) that may cause problems with ADSL2+. EnablePMTUDiscovery 1 is on & 0 is off Try it off. I can't do much we these until you are sure of the MTU you will be using. These two should below be multiples of MSS GlobalMaxTcpWindowSize TcpWindowSize These are based on MTU minus 40 basically the MSS. The minus 40 comes from subtracting this 20-byte TCP and 20-byte IP headers which are part of the datagram. TcpRecvSegmentSize TcpSendSegmentSize I think the new thinking is DefaultTOSValue set to 0 like you now have it . You might also try increasing this DefaultTTL to 128. After any changes to CableNut you need to restart your computer for the cahnges to go into the registry. This is a link to a .pdf users guide for your modem if you need it. http://support.3com.com/infodeli/tools/wireless/3CRWDR100/DUA100A-72AAA02.pdf

I looked around for the insulated tube because it made sense to not let the heat into the room.I hope the work for the 2CV . The prefilter material sounds like it would work for a self engineered filter.The ones I found already made for a computer were thin & didn't look like they would help but a little.Maybe there are some good ones I just didn't find them.They do make some PC cases with filters.

I own one & I just use light pressure on the blower valve.But some people might need to use a pressure regulator.Or for a lot that don't have an air compresser(full size) you can use a portable air tank fill it with the small electric compresser that you can carry in your car for low tires.Just fill it to 25 lbs or so & it will have low pressure.You can get a blower valve for these that just fits over the regular chuck for tire valves. Heres the alternate option You can get a hose like comes with the small compresser or a hand operated air pump.You can just use your spare car tire clip the hose to the tire valve & a blower on the other end.Then just air the spare back up after. Btw : Volkswagon used to power their windsheild washer this way.

Roco;What I found was this it's insulated so a lot better than the thin flexy dryer vent hose. http://dwincorp.com/product_info.php?cPath=57&products_id=296&osCsid=d1d4a60d28cb52714f39104782bb8987 4" x 25' Insulated Flex [4" x 25' Ins] $16.00 Highly efficient thermally insulated flexible duct, for use in heating and cooling systems. CPE core easily expands over fittings. Core is bonded to a steel spring wire helix supporting a blanket of fiberglass covered by a polyethylene vapor barrier. One 25 ft. section per carton I don't overclock so Heating really hasn't been a problem.I don't know why but my motherboard doesn't have a heat sensor.But I have a program for my specific hard drive that will measure its temperature. I will see what I can find on intake filters for computers.I guess you need to use some compressed air to blow it all out.

mrproper;I have been reading some on the ADSL & for it the MTU should be 1500.So You should change that in your router.While there unless you know you need it disable "Universal Plug & Play" If you are between 1 & 2 kilometers then ADSL should work fine. Did you restore your original settings with the TCP Optimizer as I suggested? I also noticed That your CableNut was a lot different.Did you already "delete the CableNut tweaks" in it?

mrproper ;;I think we should do it this way if I'm going to help.I went to the speedguide.net site & read some on the TCP Optimizer.I think it iss a good program & I will put some links to the site for you to learn more about it.This way you can use it to determine latency. You misunderstood how I wanted you to get an average latency.I think properly used the TCP Optimizer will help you find the latency. To cover the way I suggested again ping not tracert 10 different sites not Google 10 times then average the latency. First we will try to get you back to the settings you had before you installed the TCP Optimizer .Then we will do the same with cablenut.From there we will use cablenut to display those settings.Once there we will see if we can tweak again.Leave the changes you made to your router . & if you can I think we need to know the distance you are from the CO(Central Office),telephone company terminal,loop what ever you call it.Either the telephone company or your ISP should be able to tell you this. I think you need to call your ISP & ask what speed you should expect not the maximum .This might help determine the correct settings because you have never tested here anyway at 9000kbps.or even close . So do this first: How do I revert my settings to a previous state ? To revert any changes made to your system using the TCP Optimizer, go in its "File" pull-down menu and choose "Restore Windows Default Settings", or even "Restore backed up settings". TCP Optimizer version 2 (and later) makes an automatic backup of the settings it changes the first time you run it. It creates a file of this form "sg_backup_2005-05-11-0903.spg" in the same directory where the program resides. Then you need to restart your computer so the settings will change in the registry. Once this is done we will do the same with cablenut. This is not an uninstall but going back to your previous settings.

Roco;I'm going to put togather my posts from the Temperature topic. I never did build this but I think it would be excelent because it would either take the exhaust from the computer case outside,to another room or to the attic.This would drop the temperature in the room even minorly.With thee increased flow it should keep the PC at room temperature.The one thing I didn't look for & I bet they make one is a better filter for the case intake.This would be necessary due to the increased air flow.If this was done correctly I don't think it would void any warranty.I think PC cases should have a lot better intake filtration than they do now anyway. I did some work on the vent system like I was thinking about.These are the link for the parts. http://www.smarthome.com/3011.html 3016 This is the inline exhaust fan you would need to put a 115 volt power cord on it.Or if you put it through the ceiling into the attic probably wire it directly to the house wiring.This is a inside vent fan.(they do make some outside inline vent fans but the are 4 to 5 times more expensive.) http://dwincorp.com/product_info.php?cPath=57&products_id=296&osCsid=d1d4a60d28cb52714f39104782bb8987 This is the link for the 4" insulated flex duct. http://plumbing.gillroys.com/Heating/Dryer_vents_and_hose/Bathroom_Fan_Eave_Vent-s264954.html This is a vent I found that looks like the flat part facing the PC power supply could be screwed then sealed in front of the power supply fan & the flex duct clamped to the other side. The reason for the fan being this far away is to take the noise & heat out of the PC room.If you use an outside fan you could go strait through the outside wall & the fan noise would be outside. With the inside fan Cost would be under $100.00 with the outside fan about$225.00 I decided I would post the outside fan also. http://www.fantech.net/fr.htm below is a diagram & photos of the parts. On my plan there are three options for locating the exhaust fan.1.through the wall into the next room the exhaust fan would be in the next room.this would put the fan noise & PC heat in the next room.2.The same with the attic if you wanted to have the fan noise & PC heat in the attic. 3. This would require the more expensive outdoor exhaust fan & it would draw the PC heat through the outside wall. If you wanted to draw outside air into the PC in the winter you could run a duct from the PC intake to a window.

mrproper;This was inone of your posts I used the M ximo = 252ms for the latency in the Cablenut calculator. Haciendo ping a testmy.net [67.18.179.85] con 32 bytes de datos: Respuesta desde 67.18.179.85: bytes=32 tiempo=252ms TTL=51 Respuesta desde 67.18.179.85: bytes=32 tiempo=205ms TTL=51 Respuesta desde 67.18.179.85: bytes=32 tiempo=205ms TTL=51 Respuesta desde 67.18.179.85: bytes=32 tiempo=205ms TTL=51 Respuesta desde 67.18.179.85: bytes=32 tiempo=204ms TTL=51 Respuesta desde 67.18.179.85: bytes=32 tiempo=205ms TTL=51 Respuesta desde 67.18.179.85: bytes=32 tiempo=207ms TTL=51 Respuesta desde 67.18.179.85: bytes=32 tiempo=204ms TTL=51 Respuesta desde 67.18.179.85: bytes=32 tiempo=204ms TTL=51 Respuesta desde 67.18.179.85: bytes=32 tiempo=206ms TTL=51 Respuesta desde 67.18.179.85: bytes=32 tiempo=204ms TTL=51 Respuesta desde 67.18.179.85: bytes=32 tiempo=205ms TTL=51 Estad

Roco you are going to think I run light.With Windows ME my C drive is usually around 1GB. my D drive about 250 MB they are both partitions on the same HD.

Roco;I don't need one but I think the copper towere fan for the CPU would help.Read the topic in the link below.I never tried the external system I kind of designed >i would like to see someone try it.The only case mods would be putting in a better intake filter & where the exhaust leaves the power supply. http://www.testmy.net/forum/index.php?topic=6057.msg57602#msg57602

Roco: It is a free software by Lucent.This is where I got mine: http://www.myvitalagent.net/ Has version 8.0 &8.0.1 I use the second one I don't know what the difference is.I have 8.0.1 I haven't had any connection problems at testmy.Since the other day when it was down for everybody.Then the small problem I posted but it only affected people not logged in. The screen shot was to show almost everything.Normally its just about a 2" x2" window.the way I use mine & that can easily be sent to the system tray when it's in the way.But all I have it show is traffic.Basically either modem speed or web speed.I have found one thing about it with dial-up you need it open before you connect or it doesn't give modem speed.I don't know how it would work with other connections. Like I said I will check out Tick but I'm used to this one & it works well.Probably both are good programs.

Tommie ;I wasn't worried Dark06 was just joking about me.At least that's how I took it. & peepnklown is seldom has a positive attitude about anything.If he read the link he would have seen that's what it said for the most part. I will boil it down to it's essence. RAM optimizers fool your OS by telling it that it is loading a program of the size that you want to free.This puts that amount in virtual memory.Then it doesn't load a program. Some of them do defrag RAM sort of like Windows defrags the whole OS.Aranging it so it find the information in it faster.

Roco;I'm still going to check out Tick but here are the screen shots of the one I use .It sounds very simular.My time is unlimited so I don't have to keep track but this program does.

tommie;using free Ram XP Pro in the other tab in settings "Tray icon displays" set to show "Megabytes of free RAM" When this shows zero you have used all your RAM. I'm not sure exactly what XP has but in ME . Start/Programs/Accessories/System Tools/System Information once there under system summary (the first screen on ME) It shows "Total Physical Memory" & "Avalible Physical Memory" The second one is the amount of RAM free it's the same with it if it is zero you have used all RAM.At that point it uses virtual memory.Which is the page file on your HD. So you might have to look for a simular area of XP to find it. For Windows clearing RAM I think the only way is restart.But I would be glad to know too if there is another way with windows alone.

mrproper;Since VanBuren was helping I turned it over to him.He's very good.I'm not sure what settings you need to make in Cablenut .I looked at the screen shot of yours & it didn't have most of the values filled in.Make sure VanBuren takes a look at this.I think this way it may have even removed some registry setting from your OS. I'm sure this one should not be blank" DefaultReceiveWindow" I will see if I can Find a couple of things.for you to look at. The text files I posted before explain a lot of the Cablenut settings.These are from Microsoft not Cablenut .But they explain what the settings do.To some degree anyway. This is a link to screen shots of some testmy members Cablenut settings including VanBurens.They might not be for your connection but should show you what the Cablenut settings display should look like Full of settings.If you can't see the settings click on the blue at the bottom of the picture & open it to your image veiwer where you can magnify it. http://www.testmy.net/forum/index.php?topic=3274.msg30972#msg30972 Also these are screen shots from the cablenut analyzer page.I got the information from your posts & used those.The latency I got from your ping. These are for the 3 DSL types that were available.They are probably simular but maybe one will work for you.

CA3LE;For me not long only since the shutdown a few days ago.I usually log in if I'm going to be here a while but if I'm doing other surfing & just want to check quick to see if anything is going on at testmy.Maybe check a topic or two.I don't log in.. I have done it this way for a long time & no problem till the shutdown a couple of days ago. I don't know if anyone else had the problem before that. It worked correctly this morning.

I have ben known to explain id detail. peepnklown ;That's not entirly correct.The link explained it pretty well if you could overlook some of the weird spelling. For an OS with limited RAM they do help.If you have a lot of RAM they probably slow down performance. tommie ;You probably need a long answer.For the settings to turn it off but still use it to monitor use .DO this; In Settings .Under the Memory tab clear all of the auto free boxes. Then check "Don't run if CPU use is above" set to 1%.Since CPU will always be above 1% that should stop it from auto clearing. Then if you think you might want to clear some RAM manually.Dot the circle "try to free" & put in the amount of RAM you want it to try to free. What this does is frees this much RAM when you double click your tray icon. If you think it still might auto free you can also check the "Promt before automatically freeing" You can always R click the tray icon & go to "try to free" It will let you choose a percentage of RAM to try to free. Under the program tab clear all boxes in"Memory related program options" this will keep it from displaying a report.This annoyed me. Under the "other "tab I set left double click to "Automaticall free RAM & Right double click to "No effect" & Normal for CPU . Under sound /shortcuts I set all shortcuts to "none" & unchecked sound. In the "Display "tab check what you want it to display when you R click the tray icon & select restore.On this screen :Dot Autofree & slide the bar all the way left.Make sure to uncheck "Display freeing results report when done with memory options." Then to close it you select minimize & to system tray.If you just close it it will stop the program. This should pretty much let you display the amount of free RAM in your system tray & manually clear RAM.& look at the use in the restore box when you want too. Then tommie try to see if you can use all your RAM.I doubt with 2G you ever run out any way.

That much RAM might be interesting.I don't remberanyone matching the RAM to the amount the CPU can handle.Probably not necessary. I have a version of free Ram XP Pro What settings do you want to use? Or do you want to just shut most of it off & use the tool tray icon?

This link explains what the RAM optimizers do in general. http://www.winmag.com/columns/explorer/2000/12.htm Even if you don't use it to free RAM.You can set it to do almost nothing.It still gives you a toolbar icon that shows either Ram used or RAM unused which ever you like.I need to verify this but I think they compress data in your Ram some way as well as use virtual . I could slow you down tommie with the amoumt of RAM you have.So if you like the icon just set it to do nothing but that. From what I read you need your virtual memory & page file(swap file) no matter how much RAM you have.XP even needs it more than a 9x OS.Read this on virtual memory in XP: What is Virtual Memory? A program instruction on an Intel 386 or later CPU can address up to 4GB of memory, using its full 32 bits. This is normally far more than the RAM of the machine. (The 32nd exponent of 2 is exactly 4,294,967,296, or 4 GB. 32 binary digits allow the representation of 4,294,967,296 numbers

I haven't tried Tick Roco.I use something simular called "My Vital Agent".I think it is only for 9x OS's.I guess you tried the testmy mirror in Australia?

I'm using IE6 .I just logged out & I purposly didn't clear the browser cache.It loaded all the posts on the page but still no buttons.I took another screenshot & am posting just the very bottom of the page.btw I only have IE as a browser now. I'm fixing to have to go this morning.But I will try later with clearing the cache & maybe a few other things.

I just wanted to see if anyone else had this problem.This started after the site was down the other day.When I select a topic & haven't logged in.I get just the first post with no buttons like in the screen shot below.This doesn't happen with every topic but seems ramdom. If I log in I have no problem with the same topic loading correctly.